Ushio

武蔵国分寺うしお蕎麦。A delicious meal at Musashi Kokubunji Ushio soba shop in Kokubunji (a short walk from Nishi-Kokubunji station). Can you see the hand-drawn menu of seasonal dishes on the wall? It shows you the heart of the restaurant. The chef has a selection of sake-friendly small dishes before ending with handmade soba. It’s a charming shop…

Nishi-Ogikubo Manoma

Delighted to discover Manoma in Nishi-Ogikubo for a recent working lunch. The simple menu consists of a variety of curry with rice, drinks, and a few sweets. My favorite was the vegan dal curry, but all were oishii delicious. The caramel pudding was rich in texture. Notably the brightly lit cafe has comfortable seating, both…

Cafe Sadiiq

Delighted to have an American breakfast spot on the JR Chuo line at Cafe Sadiiq. Pancakes, egg, bacon, and a carrot rape salad with tuna. 1,500 yen ($10) for the pancakes, with a latte on weekdays for 400 yen ($2.50). It is just a five minute walk south of Mitaka Station, and on the way…

Honmura An

Honmura An is a charming soba shop with handmade buckwheat noodles and a tempting menu of side dishes. It’s all good. Today was a fabulous avocado salad (900 yen) thinly sliced onions, smoky katsuobushi flakes, and a shiso and tart ume dressing. Nukazuke rice bran pickles (850 yen) that are pleasantly sour and crunchy. Soba…

Sankouin

Shōjin ryōri, vegetarian Buddhist cuisine, has a rich history in the Japanese food culture. One of my favorite places to try it is at Sankouin temple in Koganei. The temple was founded in 1934 and is in a quiet residential part of Western Tokyo, north of Musashi Koganei Station on the Chūō line. There is…

Shikajika

Onigiri breakfast at Shikajika inside of Tachikawa Station. The rice is cooked in a donabe pot. The restaurant specializes in set meals based around rice including karaage fried chicken, grilled salmon, or simmered pork belly. There is an intriguing wagyū hitsuma bushi of thin slices of marbled wagyū beef over a bed of hot rice….

Eggg Café

@eggg_kokubunji is famous for fluffy pancakes but we also love the omuraisu. This one with tender beef cheeks and a demi-glace sauce. The knife 🔪 is full so it’s hard to cut into the omelette on top of the ketchup rice. If you’re curious to try the pancakes this is a great spot. The café…

Kunio

Shio ramen and a tsukemen with a wonton dipping sauce. Plus a side order of chashu gohan, rice topped simply with sliced chashu pork with a splash of a sweet soy sauce. We have tried to dine here but there is always a line. As it’s raining today my brilliant child said, we should go…

Fuji Lunch

Our local yōshoku restaurant, Fuji Lunch, has Western-style dishes like karaagé fried chicken, croquettes, hamba-gu (more like meatloaf than a hamburger), and fried cutlets. Behind the counter an elderly couple are choreographed in their movements depending on which orders they were filling. Auntie kept busy topping a large plate with julienned cabbage, lettuce, cucumbers, and…

Tonki

Tonki tonkatsu pork cutlets. This branch is in Kokubunji which is much easier to get into than the Meguro restaurant. The tonkatsu is very different as it isn’t covered with the shards of panko. My friend cooked at the Meguro restaurant. As I recall the pork was dipped in egg, flour, egg, then a fine…

Wazaya

Wafu pasta, Italian dishes with Japanese ingredients, is always a comforting meal. Here scallops and Japanese mushrooms eringi, kikurage, and shimeji in an uni cream sauce. Here at Pasta Wazaya near Mitaka Station on the JR Chuo line. It is in the area of Inokashira Koen park and the Ghibli Museum. The menu is long….

Mitaka Vegan

On a quiet residential street about five minutes from Mitaka Station is Hitokokyū. The vegetarian restaurant has a nutritious set lunch with main dish options like carrot croquette, vegetarian gyōza potstickers, and kurumabu wheat gluten cutlets. Diners pick either genmai brown rice or a kōso genmai, fermented brown rice with azuki beans. The meal is…

Kokubunji Yamagami

My father-in-law called late at night last week excited that he discovered a new tempura restaurant. He wanted to know if I would join him. I ran out the door, even though I had already had dinner. Yamagami san’s eponymous restaurant, @tenpura.yamagami, is a sleek counter. I ordered just a few pieces a la carte…

Tenka

Tenka Zushi is a kaitenzushi, conveyor-belt sushi, chain with a branch near Kichijoji Station. What makes this different from the other big chains is that the sushi is made by hand, not by a sushi robot machine. That means the rice is still warm. My girlfriend has been telling me for years how she loves…

Shōan Bunko

Delightful #teishoku set lunch at #Nishiogikubo Shōan Bunko. Grouper katsu (breaded and deep-fried), ten different vegetables, miso soup, and rice from Hinata Yamazaki san. Dessert was cheese cake with salt and iced coffee. A nice way to forget about the heat and humidity which is hitting Tokyo at the moment. It’s also the lovely tableware…

Zingaro

Nakano Broadway is ground zero for Japanese pop culture, particularly anime and manga. Artist Takashi Murakami has reopened his cafe Coffee Zingaro hidden away in the back of the building on the second floor. It’s a throwback to the 80s with the music and the tables which are also games like Donkey Kong that can…

Kugutsusō

Kugutsusō kissaten in Kichijōji is famous for its two year dry-aged coffee beans and spicy curry. The nel drip coffee is smooth. This is the morning set with thick toast, salad, and strawberry jam. I love the interior of the basement coffee shop. It feels like a cave. The wooden menu and salt and pepper…

Ajitaka

The lightest shaved ice 🍧 I have ever had. This one topped with a kabocha squash mousse with a hint of rum. The ice is made with spring water from Shinshū. The cafe is five minutes from Mitaka Station on the Chūō line. It is not far from the #GhibliMuseum. Strawberry and mango kakigōri from…

Harunaya

Just north of Ogikubo Station on Kyōkai Dōri shotengai street is Harunaya wagashi shop. The small shop has a colorful selection of Japanese confectionaries. This time of year the seasonal selection includes 青梅 aoumé, a green apricot shaped mochi filled with shiro an white bean paste and tart green apricot. The other traditional sweet is…

Woodberry Coffee

Woodberry Coffee is an excellent spot for coffee, salads, grilled cheese, and more. Woodbury has a few branches in Tokyo including in Shibuya. The Ogikubo branch is big with seating on three floors, including the rooftop. The Buddha Bowl salad includes quinoa, chickpeas, and a beet hummus. Woodberry Coffee Suginami-ku, Momoi 1-2-2 https://woodberrycoffee.com #foodsaketokyo #foodsakeogikubo…

Hotaka Kissaten

Hotaka kissaten at Ochanomizu Station opened in 1955. I love the velvet forest green booths and dark wood. The coffee here is very smooth. A simple toast, margarine, and orange marmalade is the morning menu. On a recent rainy morning the shop was quiet. A few solo customers reading a book and newspaper. I got…

Onigiri

The famous onigiri (or omusubi) restaurant Bongo has opened a sister shop in Shinjuku called Manma @onigiri_manma. We loved the onigiri. Mentaiko & cream cheese. Seasoned meat with a soy sauce-cured egg. Grilled salmon & sujiko salmon roe. My favorite was the bacon & cheese. The only side dishes are miso soup and tsukemono pickles….

Jingoro

Local noodle shop for handmade udon and soba. This hearty serving of thick Musashino style udon and soba is less than $6. Jingoro 甚五郎 Tōkyō-to, Kokubunji-shi, Honchō 3-12-2 http://www.jingo6.com/sp/menu.html

Okonomiyaki and Monjayaki

Okonomiyaki is the savory pancake that Osaka is famous for. The Tokyo version is called monjayaki and it’s the style I prefer. Not as much flour in the batter so parts of it are crispier. Konaya is a chain of restaurants where most diners do an all-you-can-eat plan. On weekends 1880 for 90 minutes ($14)….

Taiwan Dumplings in Kichijōji

Taiwanese food is trendy in Japan. In Kichijōji is an addictive roasted dumpling filled with beef and pepper (I think it was beef) at Roryu Koshi Mochi. The meat is highly seasoned with spices and pepper. The leeks are sweet and I think the dough was a little sweet. The dumplings are cooked like Indian…

Okutama Tamagoyaki Omelet

Ranway near Okutama station in Western Tokyo serves dashimaki tamago made with so much dashi that the savory omelet is juicy. The menu is simple. Select from three types of eggs. We did ukokkei (Gallus gallus) red junglefowl chicken eggs (1,700 yen) and the white eggs (1,300 yen). The ukokkei set lunch comes with a…

Odamusubi Breakfast in Shinjuku Station

新宿駅のおにぎりモーニング。 Onigiri breakfast at Shinjuku station. Odamusubi is part of Odakyu department store. Diners have a selection of onigiri filled with tart umeboshi, pickled takana greens, spicy mentaiko cod roe, and more. The breakfast is rounded out with three small dishes and miso soup. I love that some of the onigiri is made with rice…

Kokubunji Tonki Tonkatsu

Tonki is a famous tonkatsu shop in Meguro, which dates back to 1961. It has a sister shop in Kokubunji, on the Chūō line, about 20 minutes west of Shinjuku. There was a line in front of the shop when we arrived, but not nearly as long as the lines I have experienced at the…

Onsen Spas, Books, and Chilling Out

Some weekends we spend half a day chilling out at onsen hot springs. It’s relaxing to soak in the warm waters, especially rotenburo outdoor hot springs with the cold breeze in the air. There are several types of hot springs to try. Ryusenji no Yu is a chain of hot springs centers. It’s like a…

Tachikawa Rainbow Spice Curry

Rainbow Spice, just one minute from Tachikawa station’s South exit, is sliver of a shop. Seven counter seats overlooking an itsy-bitsy kitchen. Rainbow Spice makes the curries from scratch and doesn’t use flour but yogurt as a thickener. This lunch was a double curry of a pork vindaloo, tart from wine vinegar with tender meat,…

Our Local Burger Shop

I love a good burger. While I was born in Tokyo, I grew up in Minnesota eating burgers and fries. There are some good burger shops in Tokyo, but it’s nice to have a local spot that we can decide to go to at the last minute and not have to make a special trip…

Vegetarian Sushi in a Traditional Japanese Home

Just south of Nishi-Ogikubo station on the JR Chuo line is a quaint kominka, traditional Japanese home, with a restaurant and retail shop. Re:gendo offers nutritious meals in a rustic setting that is worth a trip out of the city. A good friend put this shop on my radar and she even knew to pre-order the…

Asagaya Kakizawa 柿ざわ

Asagaya’s shōtengai is a covered street filled with many small shops for food, confectionaries, and essential items for daily life. It is a great neighborhood to visit if you are looking for an insight to how suburban Tokyoites shop. Just off the main shopping street is a gem of a soba shop, Kakizawa, named after the owner….

Shinjuku Kaijin 海神

Kaijin literally means the God of the Seas, a perfect name for this ramen shop that does not use meat. The seafood soup at Shinjuku Kaijin changes daily based on what seafood is in season. The broth, while rich in flavor, is light and refreshing on the palate. The fish that goes into the broth is…

Musashi-Sakai Passage a Niveau

My favorite baguette in Tokyo is found along the Chuo line near Musashi-Sakai station. Passage a Niveau does a three-grain baguette that has a lovely crumb with a chewy crust. The bakery opens at 8 a.m. but the baguettes do not come out until a bit later in the morning. Passage a Niveau is worth…

Ogikubo Takahashi Soba 高はし

Takahashi is a about a ten-minute walk from Ogikubo station on the Chuo line, but worth the journey through the residential area west of Tokyo. I was meeting a girlfriend for lunch on a Tuesday. For whatever reason, many soba shops are closed on Tuesdays. But my friend had been to Takahashi before and we…

Kokubunji Tonkatsu Katsura 国分寺とんかつ桂

Katsura is a homey tonkatsu shop about a kilometer north of Kokubunji station on the Chuo line. There is a perpetual line out the door. But the other day while biking by the line was shorter than usual and I joined the queue. There is a small table in the back and a counter with tight…

Koganei Kakigori Cafe Cula

Tokyo has just gone through the longest heat wave on history, eight days of temperatures over 35 degrees. One way to cool down in Japanese summers is with shaved ice, kakigōri. Look for the simple kanji sign 氷, usually written in a bright red kanji on a square blue and white flag. We live out on the…

Shinjuku Station Berg

I love that Tokyo is so big and filled with so many restaurants that new gems keep presenting themselves. On a recent television program Berg in Shinjuku Station came up as a great B Gourmet restaurant, cheap and delicious. It is open from 7 a.m. and stays open until late at night. It is located…

On a Mission to Find Tokyo’s Best Banh Mi

I still find it hard to believe that I can get a better banh mi sandwich in Minneapolis than I can in Tokyo. I was on a mad hunt about eight years ago in Tokyo for banh mi and then gave up after making special trips throughout the city only to be disappointed. I moved…

Le Pain Quotidien at nonowa Higashi-Koganei

I lived in Brussels for a year and one of the things I remember the most is the Le Pain Quotidien down the street from my apartment. The bakery opened up early in the morning so I could stop by and get a croissant or pain au chocolat to start the day. The large communal…

Spoon Curry

Japanese curry, one of the country’s comfort food dishes, is something we make at home all of the time. Often using packages of curry roux that now come in a wide variety of flavors and levels of heat. I am a firm believer in not going out to eat food that can be easily made…

Sanukiya – Kaiseki Udonya and Saké

Tokyo is filled with a wide variety of izakaya, places with food and saké. Recently I got together with friends, two editors from a popular food magazine, DANCYU, and a famous saké and shōchū authority for a night out. I was told that we were going to Sanukiya in Kōenji. Sanuki is a region in Japan famous for…