Miso katsu is a local dish to Nagoya. Fried cutlets topped with a sweet miso dressing. The local style of miso in Nagoya is called Hatchō and is a dark and intense miso. The katsu here is made with Nagoya Kochin chicken. But there are many restaurants also serving miso katsu with pork. The other…
Mie Toba Hot Springs Inn
When traveling to the countryside we love staying at onsen ryokan. These are inns with hot springs. Many will include dinner and breakfast with the stay. In Mie south of Ise Shrine we stayed at Ijika Daiichi Hotel Kagura. It was a lovely property on the top of a hill so we had gorgeous 360…
Ise Shrine
First time to Mie prefecture and the main reason for this visit is to make a pilgrimage to Ise Jingu, the Shinto shrine dedicated to the solar goddess Amaterasu. She is the ancestral deity to the Imperial family. Amaterasu has been enshrined at Ise Shrine for 2,000 years. There is a vibrant and colorful yokochō…
Wako
Wako is our neighborhood #tonkatsu shop. Lunch for three for only ¥4,000 ($28). Check out the lunch specials on the board. Many at only ¥1,000 ($7). Wako also provides complimentary refills of cabbage, rice, and miso soup. Many tonkatsu shops offer this so don’t be shy. Ask. Just be sure to try and not leave…
Sake Cocktail
Interesting saké cocktail concept. Mini carafe with sugar, dried #kabosu citrus peel, and cinnamon stick. Add saké and put in the refrigerator for at least four hours. It is sweet and a bit medicinal with the spice and hints of citrus. I enjoyed it on the rocks. Will be fun to do this at home…
Une Labo
Three curry plate at @une_labo. Une is the name of the small mound of dirt at farms where seeds are grown. The turmeric rice on the dish symbolizes the une at farms. The vegetables on top are all local vegetables fried, pickled, sauteed, and simmered. Charming cafe near Kokubunji Station for curry using #Kokuvege, local Kokubunji…
Ebisu Yokochō
Grateful to Ligaya Mishan for introducing Sally Kohn and her lovely family. Sharing izakaya culture with them at Ebisu Yokochō. I went early to grab a table. It’s popular and fills up quickly. There are several restaurants in the Yokochō. I picked this one as the menu had the most appealing dishes. Edamame, avocado, fried…
Kaneko Hannosuke
Fun lunch with udon and tempura at Kaneko Hannosuke, a popular tempura shop with several branches in Tokyo. My kid picked this lunch spot because he was excited for the condiments on the table: onsen super soft boiled egg wakamé tenkasu tempura bits tororo kombu shaved kelp mountain vegetables gobo burdock root and ginger pickles…
Hiyashi Chūka
A fabulous summer noodle dish is hiyashi chūka or chilled ramen. Here topped with thin slices of omelet, ham, cucumbers, menma fermented bamboo shoots, and crab kani kamaboko imitation crab. At the supermarket look in the refrigerator section for fresh ramen packs. The sauces can be goma sesame or soy sauce based. The noodles cook…
Katsukuchi Tonkatsu
One of my favorite #tonkatsu restaurants in #Tokyo is @katsukichi_official. My first time to visit the #Marunouchi branch in the Shin Marunouchi building on the 5th floor. The Hiyashi Katsu Don is a large bowl of rice topped with a warm fried pork cutlet topped with a slippery grated mountain vegetables, okra, myōga, cucumbers, shiso,…
Haneda Villa Fontaine
At Haneda Airport near Terminal Three is the Villa Fontaine Hotel with an onsen hot springs @izumitenkunoyu. The location is ideal if you have an early flight or a late arrival into Tokyo. The room is basic but I am mostly here for the onsen and for a bed that is near the airport so…
Northeastern University
Northeastern University has a fabulous summer program on the Food of Japan. Professors Susan Ito and Jared Young have put together a syllabus packed with lectures with speakers including my mentor, Elizabeth Andoh. I had the great pleasure of speaking to the students. Ideally we would have done a market tour together, but my tours…
Reading Labels – Ramen
Tips on reading Japanese recipes on packages. Here are four different packages of #ramen. The pack comes with straight dried noodles, a dried soup package, and a small seasoned oil packet. Two key points:Look for 分 (fun) how many minutes to boil the noodles. Look for ml for how many milliliters of water to boil…
Tsurutontan
Carbonara udon at Tsurutontan at Haneda Airport, Terminal Three. Creamy soup topped with eggplant, fried lotus root, snap peas, scrambled eggs, egg yolk, chunks of bacon, and a generous shower of Parmesan cheese. Tsurutontan has branches in Tokyo including #Ginza. Diners can select from thick or thin (hosoi) handmade udon noodles. This massive bowl is…
Honmura An
Honmura An is a charming soba shop with handmade buckwheat noodles and a tempting menu of side dishes. It’s all good. Today was a fabulous avocado salad (900 yen) thinly sliced onions, smoky katsuobushi flakes, and a shiso and tart ume dressing. Nukazuke rice bran pickles (850 yen) that are pleasantly sour and crunchy. Soba…
Vegetarian French at est
A delightful vegetarian meal at @esttokyo at the @fsotemachi. The cuisine is mostly made with locally sourced Japanese ingredients. Chef @guillaumebracaval masterfully creates dishes that showcase the seasonal vegetables. Highlights include a corn flan accented with a gazpacho-inspired tomato sauce and sweet corn kernals. Roasted potatoes thinly and accented with black truffles. Tartly pickled zucchini with a sweet…
Yoshinozushi Honten
No When working at Nihonbashi Takashimaya I sometimes would have lunch at Yoshinozushi Honten. The sushiya dates back 140 years. Yoshinozushi is famous for being the restaurant where fatty tuna was first called toro. It is a fifth-generation restaurant. When I was going about 20 years ago there was a young apprentice, Takuya, who was…
Umezono Kakigōri
Kakigōri shaved ice is one way to make Tokyo summers bearable. Matcha and azuki is a classic combination. Some sweetened condensed milk to make it richer. Umezono is a famous traditional sweets shop in Asakusa. This branch is in the Nihonbashi Takashimaya department store, on the 7th floor, in the kimono department. I was surprised…
Mitsui Memorial Museum
Fantastic cha no yu tea ceremony exhibit at the Nihonbashi Mitsui Memorial Museum. Fascinating to see pieces used by tea master Sen no Rikyu. Included are a few National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties. Tea bowls. Bamboo tea scoops. Water jars. Tea kettles and more. Many items from the 16th and 17th c. Some from…
Ueno Yabu Soba
Natto soba and tamagoyaki at Yabu Soba. The 130-year old shop makes the buckwheat noodles from scratch in the first floor atelier. The soba had a rich texture. Loved it with grated mountain potato, natto, nori, shiso, and green onions. The tamagoyaki is made with cream. 🥰 Yabu Soba is near the boisterous Ameya Yokochō…
Coin Cafe
Chai at the peaceful Coin basement cafe. Excellent selection of breads at Bank bakery that can be brought to the cafe. This is in a quiet part of Nihonbashi Kabutochō near the Tokyo Stock Exchange. Will be a good place to work on a laptop or to do some writing. CoinChūō-ku, Nihonbashi Kabutochō 6-7
Milk Stand
Milk stand inside #Akihabara Station. Dozens of #milk options from producers throughout #Japan. Even flavored milks like coffee, strawberry, and vanilla. Some days my commute into the city goes through this station and it’s a fun ritual to take a break. Feeling the rush of passing commuters and the breeze from trains on the nearby…
Omiya Bonsai Art Museum
Fabulous afternoon at the Omiya Bonsai Museum. Located a short walk from Toro Station on the JR Utsunomiya line. From Tokyo Station it was only about 35 minutes. We were incredibly fortunate that our visit coincided with a 30-minute tour. Our guide, Harry Turton, from the UK, taught us so much about bonsai, how it’s…
Hajime Hanare
Hajime tonkatsu in #Nihonbashi. This is the hanare second shop. Excellent value for ¥1580 ($10). I added the ¥200 menchi katsu made with chopped bits of pork, which I recommend. There are three types of pork to choose from. Also a selection of donburi rice bowls.The kanji for Hajime is 一, which can also be…
Sanzou
Excellent Sedona curry at Sanzou Tokyo in Shimokitazawa. The red color comes from beets. Not too spicy. Guy near me kept wiping away his sweat from a different curry. Love the chilled chai offered at the end. Unexpected. A nice treat! Pickled cucumbers and onions to garnish. Tachigui, stand and eat, so it’s a quick…
Ballon d’Essai
Fluffy shaved ice over vanilla ice cream and coffee jelly. The soft shards are dressed with sweetened condensed milk and topped with an intense espresso. At Shimokitazawa Ballon d’Essai Latte Art. Only ¥850 ($5.50). Coffee jelly is my go to order at a new cafe. It was hot today and the kakigōri caught my eye….
Prime Sake
Delighted to finally meet @betsyandrews. We connected at Haneda Airport. No better place to chat than at the new @prime_sake #nihonshu bar at Terminal Three. Interesting concept, especially when you read the saké 🍶 menu. No mention of junmaishu or polishing terms like ginjō. Menu of saké-friendly small bites like smoked cheese and daikon pickles…
Azabudai Hills
The newer Azabudai Hills mall is filled with shops and restaurants. Sushi, tonkatsu, soba, cafes, and a supermarket. It’s hard to explore in one visit. So many tempting meals. Enjoyed a diavolo spicy pizza at Risto Pizza, the high end restaurant by chef Giuseppe Errichielli. I was told the more casual restaurant is at Napoli Sta…
Tamlapin
So excited to finally make it to Tamlapin @tamlapin_botan in Monzennakacho. A hipster bakery starting at 7:30 a.m. in the morning that turns into a cool bar in the afternoon after 3 p.m. The wines are all from Hokkaido. I enjoyed a fruity @chitosewinery Kerner with the plate of small bites and ten pieces of…
Shichiroca
Onigiri Shichiroca is a quiet sliver of a shop for onigiri. 🍙 Open for #japanesebreakfast from 7:30 a.m. 🥰 Only two seats if you’re interested in the morning set. Today the daily rice ball was tori soboro ground chicken in a sweet soy sauce. I added a simmered anago sea eel for the second #omusubi….
Sankouin
Shōjin ryōri, vegetarian Buddhist cuisine, has a rich history in the Japanese food culture. One of my favorite places to try it is at Sankouin temple in Koganei. The temple was founded in 1934 and is in a quiet residential part of Western Tokyo, north of Musashi Koganei Station on the Chūō line. There is…
Shikajika
Onigiri breakfast at Shikajika inside of Tachikawa Station. The rice is cooked in a donabe pot. The restaurant specializes in set meals based around rice including karaage fried chicken, grilled salmon, or simmered pork belly. There is an intriguing wagyū hitsuma bushi of thin slices of marbled wagyū beef over a bed of hot rice….
Yomoda Soba
Yomoda Soba is a casual stand-and-slurp soba shop with branches in Tokyo. A bowl of noodles topped with tempura is only about 620 yen ($4). There are a variety of tempura toppings including shrimp, squid, or julienned onions. What Yomoda Soba is also famous for is the Indian curry. A spicy curry with a small…
Minmin Gyoza
Utsunomiya in Tochigi prefecture, just north of Tokyo, is famous for #gyoza #potstickers 🥟 . It is an easy day trip from Tokyo. We were visiting #Tohoku in the north of Japan for spring break and included a long stay in Utsunomiya so that we could have gyoza for dinner. Minmin is a popular shop…
Mandegan
Mandegan is cool and casual sake/wine bar in Shibuya. It is by the brilliant Kotaro Hayashi san of the eponymous izakaya Kotaro, which just celebrated its 13th-anniversary. Mandegan opens at 4 p.m. and is a great spot to stop by for a few small bites and glasses of sake or wine. The menu includes some…
Park Hyatt Tokyo
The Park Hyatt Tokyo Appreciation Night was an evening for friends of the hotel to gather before it closes for refurbishments. A fabulous and luxurious fete including champagne, caviar, Japanese whisky, sushi, wagyu beef, and so much more. As a sommelier at the New York Grill and Bar I was humbled to see some former…
Park Hyatt Tokyo
Bidding farewell to the iconic @parkhyatttokyo. All the more famous since Lost in Translation was filmed here. I am hoping the penthouse New York Grill and Bar won’t change too much. Remember there was a big brouhaha about the lobby of the Okura Hotel? In the end after the refurbishment the lobby hadn’t changed too…
Naruko Onsen Yumoto Kissho
Naruko Onsen’s rich history dates back over 1,000 years. The hot springs was first discovered in 837. It is one of the larger hot springs areas in Japan. There are many onsen ryokan inns with hot springs in Naruko Onsen, Miyagi. We stayed at Naruko Onsen Yumoto Kissho which is up a small hill from…
Naruko Onsen
Naruko Onsen in Yamagata is a quiet hot springs resort famous for kokeshi wooden dolls. The history can be dated back over 1,000 years and it’s said to be one of the largest onsen villages in Japan. But as with most onsen stays one checks into the ryokan inn and maybe spend some time in…
Tsuruokaya
Tsuruokaya miso ramen with horumon simmered offal and gyōza. Yamagata prefecture is one of the top consumers of ramen in Japan. We loved the ramen here. Rich in umami. Chewy noodles. 🍜 Oishii. Tsuruokaya #鶴岡家Yamagata-ken, Tsuruoka-shi, Koyodokawa, Yachida 5-1https://turuokaya.jp
Akaibunko
In Akita we discovered a spacious and hip kissaten, Cafe Akaibunko. It is located next door to the Akita Public Market, also called Citizen’s Market. After picking a table a server pushed a cart and parked it table side. She then queried if we would like water with or without fresh lemon. I love this thoughtful…
Sato Yosuke
One of my go-to tips for finding restaurants in a new city in Japan is to go to the local department stores. In Akita city Seibu department store has one of my favorite udon restaurants, Sato Yosuke. The 8th-generation restaurant serves Inaniwa udon that is stretched out by hand. The noodles are silky and easy…
Morioka Jajamen
Morioka #jajamen is noodle dish topped with a meaty miso, cucumbers 🥒, and grated ginger 🫚. On the table is a chili sauce for adding heat and vinegar to brighten it up. To finish we tried the chiitantan soup. A raw egg is cracked into the bowl with the last of the noodles. The server…
Bankamu
Pizza toast kissaten morning in Aomori at Bankamu Sato Kissaten. Opens at 7 a.m. on weekdays. Coffee ground and brewed after your order is taken. There is a selection of toast. Satō Kissaten Bankamu Aomori-ken, Aomori-shi, Chūō 1-26-1 Aomori is in the northern part of Japan.🇯🇵 I am a big fan of the Tohoku region….
Yoku Moku
My go-to omiyage gift for friends is Yoku Moku cigares packed in its signature tin boxes. Starting today through June 14th Yoku Moku has a limited edition matcha cigare with matcha chocolate inside. The sweets are sold in every department store and I believe at both Haneda and Narita airports (last time I checked). The…
New York Grill
The infamous Park Hyatt Tokyo will be closing temporarily starting May 7th, 2024. The hotel will undergo a full refurbishment. The hotel is 30 years old. I went for one last lunch at the timeless New York Grill and Bar. It is one of Tokyo’s top steakhouses. The lunch is a luxurious buffet for appetizers…
Aomori Joppari
Spring break in Tohoku. We started in Aomori. Dinner at this very cool izakaya called Joppari. One wall is lined with sake. Diners sit around a c-shaped counter. The menu has lots of photos and features local Tohoku dishes including harako meshi of salmon and ikura over rice, tsukemono pickles, kara agé fried chicken, scallops…
Negishi
Gyūtan grilled beef tongue is a local dish from #Sendai in the northern #Tohoku area. #Negishi is a chain here in #Tokyo. This one in the subterranean halls of #Kanda Station. Only ¥1,300 ($8.50). The rice is mugimeshi, rice cooked with barley. Tororo, grated mountain potato with raw egg, is a slippery topping for the…
Train Travel Tips
Train travel in Japan is a fun part of holidays. We enjoy eating and drinking while on the shinkansen. We did our routine of picking a bentō at #EkibenyaMatsuri. One of Tokyo’s famous coffee ☕️ shops, Sarutahiko Coffee, has a branch near one of the shinkansen entrances. It’s a popular shop and may have a…
Eggg Café
@eggg_kokubunji is famous for fluffy pancakes but we also love the omuraisu. This one with tender beef cheeks and a demi-glace sauce. The knife 🔪 is full so it’s hard to cut into the omelette on top of the ketchup rice. If you’re curious to try the pancakes this is a great spot. The café…
Food Sake Tokyo 