Ningyocho Imahan 人形町今半 Chuo-ku, Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-9-12 中央区日本橋人形町2-9-12 Tel. 03-3666-7006 11:00 – 22:00, no holidays http://www.imahan.com/e-guide/ningyocho_shop.html (English) Ningyocho Imahan is a branch of the Asakusa shop that opened in 1952. Imahan is synonymous with sukiyaki, shabu-shabu, and grilled wagyu steak. The large two-story red building with black tile roof sits on the corner. The entrance…
Tamahide in Ningyocho 人形町の玉ひで
Tamahide 玉ひで Chuo-ku, Nihonbashi Ningyocho 1-17-10 中央区日本橋人形町1-17-10 Tel. 03-3668-7651 11:30 – 13:00, 17:00 – 22:00, Saturday 16:00 – 21:00 closed Sunday and holidays http://www.tamahide.co.jp/ (Japanese) Tamahide will be easy to find as there is a perpetual line out the front door. The large white building looks like a castle with the large stones surrounding its…
Uokyu in Ningyocho 人形町の魚久
Uokyu 魚久 Chuo-ku, Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-4-3 中央区日本橋人形町2-4-3 Tel. 03-3666-0048 Monday – Friday 10:00 – 20:00 Saturday 10:00 – 19:00 Sunday and holidays 10:00 – 18:00 http://www.uokyu.co.jp/ (Japanese) Uokyu is famous for its seafood marinated in sake kasu (sake lees). This process is not seen too much outside of Japan, unlike the miso marinated seafood, which…
Hiyama in Ningyocho for Wagyu 人形町の日山
Hiyama is renowned for its wagyu for sukiyaki, shabu shabu, or for steaks. Next door to the restaurant is a retail shop selling the gorgeously marbled Japanese beef. Pricey, but worth having once in your life. Hiyama 日山 Chuo-ku, Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-5-1 中央区日本橋人形町2-5-1 Tel. 03-3666-5257 Monday – Saturday, 11:30 – 14:00, 17:00 – 21:00; closed…
Kintame in Ningyocho 人形町の近為
If you are really passionate for pickles, a meal at Kintame (from Kyoto) is not to be missed. Ask for the bubuchazuke, an array of pickles along with a grilled fish that has been marinated in miso or sake kasu. The most convenient location is at Daimaru’s Restaurant Floor at Tokyo station. The other shop,…
Kizushi in Ningyocho 人形町の㐂寿司
Kizushi 㐂寿司 Chuo-ku, Nihonbashi Ningyocho 2-7-13 中央区日本橋人形町2-7-13 Tel. 03-3666-1682 11:45 – 14:30, 17:00 – 21:30 (Monday – Friday) 11:45 – 21:00 (Saturday) closed Sunday and holidays no website Opened in 1924, this third generation sushi shop feels as though time as stopped. The third generation owner works with his sons, fourth generation, behind the counter. This…
Food & Wine’s 2010 Go List
This is one of my favorite article contributions each year. Food & Wine’s Go List – including the best of Tokyo. http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/go-list-2010 Tokyo highlights include Seiji Yamamoto’s Nihonryori Ryugin and Bryan Baird’s The Taproom in Harajuku. Read on for more for the best in the world.
Tokyo’s Shoutengai Shopping Arcades 東京の商店街
This article from Metropolis magazine is a list of my favorite shoutengai in Tokyo. Shoutengai are shopping arcades. Here you will find small ma and pa shops selling freshly made tofu, vegetables, seafood, meats, and much more. This is a great way to spend some free time while exploring the city. http://metropolis.co.jp/dining/local-flavors/street-eats/ (text follows) While…
Kintokiya in Kagurazaka 神楽坂のきんときや
Kintokiya きんときや Shinjuku-ku, Kagurazaka 2-10 新宿区神楽坂2-10 Phone: 03-3260-4151 10:00 – 20:00 (Sundays and holidays until 19:00) no holidays http://www.kintokiya.com (Japanese) This tiny wagashi sweets shop has items based on with imo (sweet potatoes) and kuri (chestnuts). There are also some classic sweets including yokan and dango. In the summertime pick up a purple sweet potato…
Kinozen in Kagurazaka 神楽坂の紀の善
Kinozen 紀の善 Shinjuku-ku, Kagurazaka 1-12 新宿区神楽坂1-12 Tel. 03-3269-2920 11:00 – 21:00, Monday – Saturday 12:00 – 18:00, Sunday & holidays Closed the 3rd Sunday of each month no website Kinozen is one of the cities popular kanmidokoro. Located just next door to Fujiya, Kinozen too often has a line out the front door. Their…
Fujiya in Kagurazaka
Fujiya 不二家 Shinjuku-ku, Kagurazaka 1-12 新宿区神楽坂1-12 Tel. 03-3269-1526 10:00 – 22:00, Monday – Friday 11:30 – 19:00, weekend and holidays http://www.fujiya-peko.co.jp (Japanese) Fujiya is a chain famous for affordable Western-style sweets. Normally nothing to line up for, however, this Kagurazaka branch is the only shop in Japan where you can purchase Pekochan-yaki. Pekochan is the darling…
Tokyo Bargain Dining – Katsukura Tonkatsu in Shinjuku 新宿のかつくら
In Shinjuku Times Square Building are several restaurant floors. Katsukura for tonkatsu on the 14th floor. Not every tonkatsu restaurant serves the tonkatsu with a mortar and pestle and toasted sesame seeds. Grind the seeds, releasing the aroma of the sesame seeds, and add tonkatsu sauce and then dress your tonkatsu. And the pork, breaded…
Ebisu Itchome Horumon 恵比寿一丁目ホルモン for Offal Cuisine
Ebisu Itchome Horumon is a few minutes’ walk from Ebisu station. Gas grills are on each table with a strong exhaust pipe over each grill. Our first course was a rich liver sashimi, very intense in flavor. It is garnished with sesame oil and salt. A variety of innards to grill. Other tables that had…
Shinjuku Hormone for Offal Cuisine
Shinjuku Hormone 新宿ホルモン Shinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-12-3 新宿区新宿3-12-3 Tel. 03-3353-4129 Hours: 17:00 – 24:00, no holidays http://www.ishii-world.jp/brand/motsu/shinjuku-horumon/shinjukuhoru/ (Japanese) Shinjuku Horumon and Saiseisakaba are part of a chain of restaurants managed by Ishii Group. They are the specialists in naizo, evident by the top quality products they serve, their knowledgeable staff and the wide variety of items…
Saiseisakaba for Offal Ryori 再生酒場新宿三丁目
Saiseisakaba 再生酒場 Shinjuku 3-7-3, Marunaka Building 1st floor 新宿区新宿３−７−３ Tel. 03-3354-4829 17:00 – 24:00, no holidays http://www.ishii-world.jp/brand/motsu/nihonsaisei/shinjuku3/ (Japanese) On the back streets of Shinjuku Sanchome is this friendly tachinomi (standing bar). Designed with Showa era items so it feels like stepping back in time. The shop features grilled innards but you can have some items…
Kaiseki at Tsukiji Tamura つきぢ田村
Tsukiji Tamura つきぢ田村 Chuo-ku, Tsukiji 2-12-11 中央区築地2-12-11 Tel. 03-3541-2591 11:30 – 15:00, 17:00 – 22:00, Monday – Friday 11:30 – 22:00, weekend and holidays http://www.tsukiji-tamura.com A few blocks away from the market, Tsukiji Tamura is a top destination for kaiseki cuisine by third generation chef Takashi Tamura. His father, Teruaki Takashi has penned a book…
Shotengai Shopping Arcades – Walking Food Tours of Tokyo
I love the shotengai, Japanese shopping arcades. Filled with ma and pa shops selling tofu, fresh produce, rice, pickles, miso, and other basics of the Japanese pantry. This article recently appeared in Metropolis magazine and features five of my favorite shotengai in Tokyo. http://metropolis.co.jp/dining/local-flavors/street-eats/ (text follows) While the one-stop food shopping at Tokyo’s depachika is an amazing…
Japanese Knife Shops in Tokyo
Tsukiji Masamoto There are several knife shops in the market. Some of them are friendlier than others. Fifth generation Tsukiji Masamoto (opened in 1891) has always been on the friendly side and has an English speaking staff on some days. This is where my husband and I have purchased knives in the past and we love…
Japanese Knives 101
Japanese Knives 和包丁 Wabouchou There is no better place to invest in a knife than Japan. Although they are not inexpensive, if cared for properly, Japanese knives will last a lifetime. A good knife shop will also carry Western-style knives made in Japan that are sharpened on both sides. Traditional Japanese knives are sharpened only…
Junko Nakahama – Tour Guide to Yanesen Area
My friend Junko Nakahama is a food and wine writer in Tokyo. She has recently started to conduct Saturday tours of the popular shoutengai area Yanesen (Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi). This article from Metropolis magazine (by my editor Steve Trautlein) interviews Junko on some of her favorite foodie spots in Tokyo. http://metropolis.co.jp/dining/table-talk/junko-nakahama/ (text follows) Some…
Harajuku Taproom for Craft Beer
Photo by Keigo Moriyama Tokyo is filled with many options for beer and food. What makes one pub stick out over the rest is the quality of the beer and the Harajuku Taproom is one place not to be missed for fans of craft beer. This article from Metropolis, written by my editor, Steve Trautlein,…
Shochu 101 – Part Four
Depending on how shochu is aged will be reflected on the palate. Shochu is often aged in tanks, ceramic pots, or barrels. Aged in stainless steel tanks the shochu will retain more of the base ingredient. As ceramic pots are allowed to breathe the shochu softens and rounds out on the palate. Naturally, aging in…
Shochu 101 – Part Three
There are two types of shochu: Kourui 甲類 is made in a continuous still (renzoku shiki). It is very smooth on the palate and is under 36 degrees alcohol. Kourui shochu is typically used as a mixer for cocktails. On its own it does not have any notable aromas and is unimpressive on the palate….
Shochu 101 – Part Two
There are many base ingredients that shochu is made from providing a wide variety of flavor profiles. The most commonly found are: Imo 芋 – (sweet potato) is highly aromatic, can be smooth, and also slightly sweet on the palate. There are many varieties of sweet potato all contributing their own characteristics. Kogane sengan is…
Shochu 101 – Part One
SHOCHU 焼酎 Shochu, the distilled spirit native to Japan, is made from a variety of base ingredients including sweet potatoes and barley. Shochu has the misnomer of “Japanese vodka”. Vodka often is 45 degrees in alcohol but shochu is typically 25 degrees. It is made using koji kin (a mold) that gives it a unique…
Setouchi Shunsaikan Antenna Shop
Setouchi Shunsaikan せとうち旬彩館 Minato-ku, Shinbashi 2-19-10 港区新橋2-19-10 Tel. 03-3574-7792 10:00 – 20:00, no holidays http://www.setouchi-shunsaikan.com/ (Japanese) This shop is a collaboration of both Ehime and Kagawa prefectures in the rich Setouchi inland sea on the island of Shikoku. Naturally this shop has a wide variety of seafood. Ehime is also famous for its production of…
Murakara Machikara Antenna Shop in Yurakucho
While antenna shops typically represent a prefecture, this shop carries a mishmash of items from all over Japan. The shop is not that organized, so you have to know what you are looking for. There are several antenna shops in the Tokyo Kotsu Kaikan, like Hokkaido, Akita, and many more, so definitely worth spending some…
Hokkaido Dosanko Plaza – Antenna Shop
Hokkaido Dosanko Plaza 北海道どさんこプラザ Chiyoda-ku, Yurakucho 2-10-1, Tokyo Kotsu Kaikan 千代田区有楽町２−１０−１東京交通会館 Tel. 03-5224-3800 10:00 – 19:00, no holidays http://www.dosanko-plaza.jp/ (Japanese) The large northern island of Hokkaido is famous for many agricultural products including kombu, potatoes, dairy products and its rich seafood including salmon and crab. Potatoes are represented here with croquettes, dairy with soft cream…
Kagoshima Yurakukan Antenna Shop in Yurakucho
Japan is a small country, about the size of California, yet each prefecture and region has its own local food and the Japanese treasure these regional products. There is no better expression of the diverse terroir of Japan than its local commodities. Kombu harvested from the rich mineral waters of Hokkaido. The southern prefecture of…
Food Sake Tokyo in Lufthansa Inflight Magazine
Lufthansa Inflight Magazine, January 2010Lufthansa Food Sake Tokyo and the other guidebooks in the Terroir Series by The Little Bookroom is mentioned in the January 2010 Lufthansa inflight magazine. Un wo den besten sake in Tokio?
Tokyo Bargain Dining
Elaine Louie, who is a fellow author at The Little Bookroom, has penned this great article for the New York Times on cheap eats in Tokyo. Here is her book on Cheap Eats in London: http://www.littlebookroom.com/savoirfare.html
Tokyo Cheap Eats – Kanda Yabu Soba
UPDATE: Kanda Yabu Soba caught on fire on February 19, 2013. 40 customers and employees were in the restaurant during dinner service when the fire was noticed. Everyone was safely evacuated. A spokesperson for Kanda Yabu Soba has said on NHK news the following day that the restaurant hopes to reopen in six months. If…
Tokyo Bargain Dining – Maisen Tonkatsu in Omotesando まい泉とんかつ
If you have not had tonkatsu in Japan you probably have not experienced the juicy pork cutlet with the crispy panko breaded. This served up with a hot bowl of rice and a large haystack of julienned cabbage does not disappoint. Season the cabbage and pork with some tonkatsu dressing, a dark, sweet, thick sauce…
Travel – Himi Fishing Port 氷見
Some more photos of the Himi Seafood Auction in Toyama. If I understand correctly, this is a list of the licensed buyers at the auction. As you can see in photos below, buyers will have a tag, usually on their hat, that auctioneers can recognize that these people are authorized to purchase at the auction….
Travel – Himi Fishing Port in Toyama 氷見魚市場
On the coast of Toyama on the Sea of Japan is a famous fishing port. In the winter it is renowned for its kanburi or winter buri (yellowtail). Rich in fat, it melts in your mouth like fatty tuna. Don’t worry if you miss the early morning auction as there is a retail market next…
Tsukiji Tuna Auction
My friend Alistair Douglas got his Ph.D. in tuna and he sent me these amazing photos from the opening tuna auction at the world famous Tsukiji Market for the new decade. I love the pomp and circumstance with the opening ceremony, the school of media documenting the occasion, and you have to love Alistair’s sense…
Travel – Gero Onsen’s Shimura 下呂温泉の志むら
One of my favorite places in all of Japan is Gero Onsen in Gifu prefecture, in the heart of the Japanese Alps. I first came to know Gero Onsen through a friend, Leif Hagen, who was an English teacher there. Leif introduced me to Hiroko Sensei who is pictured here. On our honeymoon Shinji and…
Ameyoko アメ横
Located under the Yamanote line train tracks at Ueno station heading south to Okachimachi station on the way to Akihabara, the electronics town, is Ameyoko, a boisterous, lively outdoor market. Not nearly as impressive as Tsukiji Fish Market, but this is open on seven days a week, which is a good alternative if Tsukiji is…
Ameyoko アメ横 – Fruits at Hyakkaen 百果園
Hyakkaen sells whole fruits boxed for gift-giving, however they are most famous for their seasonal fresh fruits skewered on waribashi (disposable chopsticks) like strawberries, pineapple and melon. The fresh fruits are juicy and a refreshing, healthful snack. Fruits Shop Hyakkaen 百果園 Taito-ku, Ueno 6-10-12 台東区上野6-10-12 Tel. 03-3832-2625 10:00 – 20:00, no holidays http://www.guidenet.jp/shop/083c/ (Japanese)
Ameyoko アメ横 – Candy at Shimura Shouten 志村商店
This candy shop, overflowing with chocolates and sweets is famous for its 1000 yen bags. It is a show where an enthusiastic salesman shouts out to the customers as he fills a bag up with candies, sweets, and snacks. It is usually filled with kids in school uniforms visiting Tokyo from the countryside. It is…
Tokyo Cheap Eats – Tsukiji Market’s Yoshinoya
Yoshinoya is a popular fast-food chain famous for its gyudon, thin slices of beef cooked with onions and a sweet soy sauce are ladled over a bowl of rice. A branch of Yoshinoya is in New York City on 42nd Street. The first shop in the chain dates back to 1899 and was located near…
Kawagoe – A Day Trip from Tokyo to Little Edo
Ken Belson in the New York Times pens a great article on the city of Kawagoe which is just about an hour north of Tokyo. This is a great day trip and my favorite shop in the city is a knife shop, Machikan. I believe it is a seventh generation shop. We have a few…
Tokyo Cheap Eats – Oedo Kaitenzushi 大江戸回転寿し
As a fishmonger, Shinji is always craving sushi. There are many ranks of restaurants, even within the kaitenzushi (revolving sushi). Ooedo Kaitenzushi came highly recommended for its variety of fresh fish at a reasonable price. Ooedo has several locations throughout the city. This one is near Okachimashi, just south of Ueno station and near the…
Osechi Ryori – Japanese New Year’s Day Cuisine おせち料理
Homemade osechi ryori I made this osechi ryori set the first year I was married for my Japanese husband’s family. It took about a week in total (not all day but using parts of each day) of menu planning, shopping, and assembling each dish. Only the kamaboko and black beans were purchased. Top left box: datémaki…
ACCJ Journal Restaurant Review – Nihonbashi Yukari
My first restaurant review for the American Chamber of Commerce in Japan Journal on my favorite kaiseki restaurant, Nihonbashi Yukari. http://accjjournal.com/nihonbashi-yukari/ (text follows) If it’s good enough for the emperor, it’s good enough for me. Third generation Kimio Nonaga of Nihonbashi Yukari recently catered an event at the Imperial Palace for a meeting between the…
Tokyo Bargain Dining – Nihonbashi Yukari
I am often queried for good but affordable restaurants in Tokyo. One of my favorites for lunch is Nihonbashi Yukari with 2002 Iron Chef winner Kimio Nonaga. The basic lunch starts at about 2,000 JPY (around $20 USD). If you want to splurge, the Yukari bento, an uspcale bento, is about 3,675 JPY (about $35…
Kappabashi Gotta Gets
I love these shochu cups in the winter when I drink shochu with hot water. These have the type of base ingredient written on the cup 芋 for imo jochu (sweet potato shochu) or 黒糖 for kokuto jochu (brown sugar shochu). These teacups will get lots of use in any home. The cup on the far…
Kappabashi Gotta Gets
Kappabashi is filled with treasures, gadgets, and tools for anyone passionate about cooking. These refrigerator sushi magnets are always fun gifts. Iron tea pots are said to soften the water that result in tea that is round on the palate. These sturdy pots retain heat and are gorgeous on any table. Some do rust…
Kappabashi – Okuda Lacquer Shop 合羽橋のオクダ
Okuda Lacquer 漆器のオクダ商店 Taito-ku, Matsugaya 3-17-11 台東区松が谷3-17-11 Phone: 03-3844-1606 http://www.kappabashi.or.jp/shops/31.html (Japanese) Lacquer shop including miso soup bowls, chopsticks and more as well as a nice selection of wooden products including manaita, wooden cutting boards that are very gentle on knives, steamers, and otoshibuta (drop lids) that are essential in any Japanese kitchen.
Kappabashi – Nishiyama for Lacquer
Nishiyama in Kappabashi has a wide array of lacquer dishes as well as affordable vessels for daily use. These red and black bowls in the left box are advertised as something that you can put in the microwave. These wooden bowls are good for miso soup, but also great for ice cream. Nishiyama also has…
Food Sake Tokyo 