
One of the most popular stalls at Tsukiji’s Outer Market is Kitsuneya. It does not sell any seafood, but it is famous for offal stewed in a savory soy broth until tender and served over a large bowl of rice (800 JPY). If you are not in the mood for offal, Kitsuneya also does nikudōfu, tofu and meat cooked in a sweet soy broth (600 JPY). The tofu and meat does not come with rice (220 JPY) so you have to order that separately. I love oshinko pickles with every meal and this day it was cucumbers pickled in salt (120 JPY). A nice, crisp contrast to the soft offal.
Hovering over the large stewpot is a fiesty grandmother. As Kitsuneya is on the main street there are many who try and take her photo and she is quick to tell them no photos allowed. I was even nervous to take this photo, so I waited until she turned the other way to snap this.
The smell of the stewing offal is rich and enticing. When I walk by with clients many will naturally hum, “mmmmmmm”. There is often a long line at the shop. There are a few stools and a narrow counter at the shop. If those are full, many will stand and eat at a high table set up by the street.
To find it, look for a small white noren banner of the shop that says in black Japanese calligraphy きつねや, or look for the old woman waving her hands telling people to stop taking her photo. 🙂
Tsukiji Kitsuneya 築地きつねや
Chuo-ku, Tsukiji 4-9-12 中央区築地4-9-12
The grandmother is quite well known in Hong Kong and Taiwan because the popular author Cai Lan (蔡瀾)has published a few articles on this stall with some hilarious comments on the fiesty grandmother many many years ago. I think this is one of the reasons many tourists are trying to capture a photo of her. I did the same thing 2 years ago. But she looked kind then and we enjoyed the rice bowl very much.
I accidentally stumbled upon this place last summer with no prior knowledge of it’s culinary goodness. Everything you said was spot on even down to the ladies there who absolutely do not want their picture taken. Well done.
It’s so good, a hot bowl of rice topped with simmered offal. I hope the old lady cheers up. 🙂