Kaisen Uoriki

Kaisen Uoriki @uoriki1930 is a seafood izakaya 🏮 at @tobu_ikebukuro department store. Seasonal seafood dishes including isaki sashimi, hamo eel, and sushi. Popular side dishes for pairing with #sake and #shochu like Satsuma age fish cakes, dashimaki tamago, and menchi katsu made from tuna. We booked a koshitsu private room so it would be easier…

Oak Door

Oak Door at the Grand Hyatt Tokyo in Roppongi is a fabulous spot to meet friends for wine and good food. The weather this day was perfect for sitting outdoors. Appetizers are perfect for sharing. Caesar salad, Hokkaido scallops, Kagawa white asparagus with smoked salmon, an an amazing creamy burrata and tomato salad with fried…

Jangara Vegan Ramen

I have tried a few vegetarian ramen but have found the bowls lacking any depth. I was delighted by the vegan ramen at Kyushu Jangara. The soup stock is rich in umami and seasoned with soy sauce. Cool vegetable toppings of cabbage, sauteed Napa cabbage, wood ear mushrooms, green onions, nori and soy meat. Jangara’s…

Suba VS

Slurping buckwheat noodles while standing is called tachigui soba.  Suba Soba from Kyoto has opened its first branch in Tokyo, called Suba VS, serving up the same signature hot bowls of noodles. About a dozen of menu options ranging from a simple enoki mushroom tempura fried into a thin fan bringing out its meaty notes…

Uokyu

I love the shitamachi area, old part of Tokyo, in particular Nihonbashi and Ningyocho. There are many historic shops – including many food shops that go back many generations. Uokyu in Ningyocho specializes in kasuzuke – fish filets marinated in sake lees and then charcoal grilled.  There was already a queue before the store opened…

Tara-chan

One of the things I love about Tokyo is that there is never enough time to try all the cool restaurants. So one has to create lists and consider what dishes to try. Unique meals like this one jump to the top. Even better, it opens at 7:00 a.m. and is on my way to…

Taimeiken

Taimeiken is a famous yoshoku restaurant known for its omuraisu omelette over a ketchup seasoned rice. The Tampopo omuraisu comes from the Juzo Itami movie Tampopo and it is said this is the recipe that was used in Tampopo. The menu is long and includes beef stew (looks amazing), hayashi rice – like a beef…

Tempura Tsunahachi

Tsunahachi つな八 is a historic tempura shop in Shinjuku. This year it celebrates 100 years. I love the branch at Shinjuku Takashimaya as it’s brightly lit and conveniently located near the station. The main shop has an old retro feel to it, which is also cool. At Takashimaya we requested counter seats and could wait…

Nishi-Ogikubo Manoma

Delighted to discover Manoma in Nishi-Ogikubo for a recent working lunch. The simple menu consists of a variety of curry with rice, drinks, and a few sweets. My favorite was the vegan dal curry, but all were oishii delicious. The caramel pudding was rich in texture. Notably the brightly lit cafe has comfortable seating, both…

Kyoto Ki

Ki 汽 in Kyoto serves Lebanese cuisine in a charming space on Kiyamichi Dōri street near the Kamogawa River. Natural sunlight fills part of the space. The communal table is topped with dried nuts, squash, and a delicate green that divides the table.  Outside of the restaurant smoke from the grilled meats fill the air….

Kyoto Kintame

Long ago I lived in Monzennakacho in Tokyo. A short walk from my home was the most charming tsukemono pickle shop from Kyoto called Kintame 近為. Kintame sits just in front of Fukagawa Fudodo temple. I often went to Kintame for the bubucha-zuke lunch. More than a dozen pickles is served with a grilled fish,…

Travel + Leisure Asia

Excited to have been tapped by Travel + Leisure Asia to pen a piece on eating in Japan. Great working with my editor, Veronica Inveen, to share with readers insider tips, having worked at both the Park Hyatt Tokyo and Takashimaya, and as the author of Food Sake Tokyo on dining out in Nippon. I hope you can…

Tsurutontan

Tsurutontan in Ginza is an udon specialty restaurant on the 10th floor of the Tokyu Plaza Ginza mall. The udon is served in enormous bowls that are dramatic, especially if you pick up the bowl to drink the broth. It’s a lovely restaurant for both solo diners and groups. Check out the cool table I…

Yamaharu

Yamaharu is one of the famous companies specializing in seasonal seafood at Toyosu Market. The company opened its first sushi shop at Toranomon Hills. The sushiya is a tachigui, stand and eat, style. I love these casual type of restaurants or drinking spots. Easy spots for solo diners or for small groups of friends. There…

Yamagataya Noriten

Yamagataya Noriten’s lunch set serves nori seven ways. A fabulous way to experience the many expressions of the sea vegetable including in soup, a salad dressing, and wrapped around #onigiri.🍙  The rice balls are made and served with two different crispy nori. Fascinating to see the differences. The first from Ariake Sea in Kyūshū has…

Le Pristine

Dining well in Tokyo is easy. If anything it can be intimidating trying to plan the perfect itinerary for the best meals while in Japan. One tip is not to limit yourself to Japanese cuisine meals only. Japan offers amazing seasonal ingredients and I love tasting meals made by non-Japanese chefs working with what is…

Ain Soph.

Fabulous vegan restaurant, Ain Soph., is in the heart of #Ginza. The bento (¥3,500 or $22) includes a salad, walnut miso dip for crudités, sesame tofu, spinach curry, tofu and potato omelet (no eggs), brown rice, and the best soy meat karaage I have ever had. The soy meat is juicy and is marinated in…

Sougo

One of my favorite rice dishes in Tokyo is served at Sougo in Roppongi. It is burdock root that is julienned and fried as tempura and then stirred into rice with shio kombu, salted kelp. The shōjin ryōri restaurant serves a modern take on the Buddhist vegetarian temple cuisine. Chef Daisuke Nomura opened his restaurant…

Mugi to Tamago

Love these wafu pasta cafes. Quick meals. All the spaghetti dishes are tempting. Mugi to Tomato noodles are made with Hokkaido flour and the noodles are fresh, not dried. This salad and pasta is a bargain ¥1480 ($10). At Tokyo Station in the Yaesu Kita Shokudo area before entering the station gates. Near Daimaru department…

Kitakata Shokudo

Kitakata Shokudo in Kanda Jimbocho serves up Fukushima style ramen. The noodles are on the thicker side and are hand massaged to be a bit wavy. The flour for the noodles is Hokkaido Yume Chikara which is high gluten. The soy sauce ramen is made with niboshi dried sardines.  We got two bowls, the niku…

Marunouchi Moheji

Finally managed to get a seat at Moheji monjayaki shop near Tokyo Station at the Shin Marunouchi Building, called Shinmaru Biru for short. Big fan of their shops at Tsukishima, the ground zero area of monjayaki. Monjayaki is a local dish to Tokyo cooked on an iron plate and eaten with a small metal spatula….

Ebisu Shodai

The white curry udon is topped with potatoes and cream whipped up to a fluffy cloud. Underneath the creamy topping is a spicy (for Japanese) curry. Shodai is also a lovely spot for sipping #sake so there is a nice list of sake-friendly small bites including dashimaki tamago omelet and soba gaki buckwheat dumpling. I…

Aoyama Ototo

Fabulous seafood lunch set at Aoyama Ototo @ototo_01010. Simple and brilliant concept. Freshly caught seafood with rice cooked in a donabe pot. Most of the seafood is grilled. The menu simply lists seasonal seafood such as: mackerel, yellowtail, Pacific saury, or sockeye salmon. There is also a miso simmered mackerel. From my seat I could see…

Maruichi Bagel

Big fan of @maruichi_bagel. Miho Inagi moved her #bagel shop from Shirogane to the Shinbashi and Toranomon area four months ago. Maruichi is about ten minutes from Shinbashi Station and it’s been too hot 🥵 and humid for me to make the trek. Maruichi opens at 7 a.m. with sandwiches starting at 8 a.m. It…

Shabusen

Cool spot in the heart of Ginza for shabu-shabu or sukiyaki. My heart skipped a beat when I first saw Shabusen. Such a cool concept. Diners seated at a counter. Staff behind the counter bringing refills of rice and green onions or topping up my tea cup. Lunch starts at 2,200 yen ($15) for the…

Tamai

Chirashizushi, scattered sushi, at Tamai in Nihonbashi. This is an old school version that is on the sweet side. Sweet black beans, candied chestnut 🌰, and sweet kampyo gourd. Mine, the tokujo, had tobiko flying fish roe. My friend ordered the tokutoku with ikura.  Reminder to self to order more chirashizushi. The main store is…

Muromachi Toriya

Muromachi Toriya yakitori set lunch. This tiny shop in Nihonbashi has a handful of counter seats and a few table. Right squeeze at the counter. My neighbor kept elbowing me when she picked up her chopsticks. 🥢🤣 Excellent value for ¥1,200 ($8.50). Tsukune meatballs, quail eggs, liver, and more. Popular dishes include #donburi of yakitori…

Ginza Torigin

Ginza, in the heart of Tokyo, is filled with fabulous restaurants. There are also narrow paths squeezed in between buildings that pedestrians can use as shortcuts to other streets. There are also restaurants hidden away in these pockets.  Torigin specializes in kama meshi, rice cooked with ingredients, and yakitori. I have tried going to Torigin…

Pizzeria il Tamburello

Fabulous truffle and Gorgonzola #pizza at Puzzeria il Tamburello in the Nihonbashi area. Served with toasted hazelnuts, pine nuts, and honey. Three croquettes to start the meal. Aonori, potato, and pasta croquettes. All fabulous. Italian music in the background.☺️ Il Tamburello is celebrating its 14th anniversary! Delighted to finally make it. Popular shop with only…

Wako

Wako is our neighborhood #tonkatsu shop. Lunch for three for only ¥4,000 ($28). Check out the lunch specials on the board. Many at only ¥1,000 ($7). Wako also provides complimentary refills of cabbage, rice, and miso soup. Many tonkatsu shops offer this so don’t be shy. Ask. Just be sure to try and not leave…

Kaneko Hannosuke

Fun lunch with udon and tempura at Kaneko Hannosuke, a popular tempura shop with several branches in Tokyo. My kid picked this lunch spot because he was excited for the condiments on the table: onsen super soft boiled egg wakamé tenkasu tempura bits tororo kombu shaved kelp mountain vegetables gobo burdock root and ginger pickles…

Katsukuchi Tonkatsu

One of my favorite #tonkatsu restaurants in #Tokyo is @katsukichi_official. My first time to visit the #Marunouchi branch in the Shin Marunouchi building on the 5th floor. The Hiyashi Katsu Don is a large bowl of rice topped with a warm fried pork cutlet topped with a slippery grated mountain vegetables, okra, myōga, cucumbers, shiso,…

Tsurutontan

Carbonara udon at Tsurutontan at Haneda Airport, Terminal Three. Creamy soup topped with eggplant, fried lotus root, snap peas, scrambled eggs, egg yolk, chunks of bacon, and a generous shower of Parmesan cheese. Tsurutontan has branches in Tokyo including #Ginza. Diners can select from thick or thin (hosoi) handmade udon noodles. This massive bowl is…

Honmura An

Honmura An is a charming soba shop with handmade buckwheat noodles and a tempting menu of side dishes. It’s all good. Today was a fabulous avocado salad (900 yen) thinly sliced onions, smoky katsuobushi flakes, and a shiso and tart ume dressing. Nukazuke rice bran pickles (850 yen) that are pleasantly sour and crunchy. Soba…

Ueno Yabu Soba

Natto soba and tamagoyaki at Yabu Soba. The 130-year old shop makes the buckwheat noodles from scratch in the first floor atelier. The soba had a rich texture. Loved it with grated mountain potato, natto, nori, shiso, and green onions. The tamagoyaki is made with cream. 🥰 Yabu Soba is near the boisterous Ameya Yokochō…

Hajime Hanare

Hajime tonkatsu in #Nihonbashi. This is the hanare second shop. Excellent value for ¥1580 ($10). I added the ¥200 menchi katsu made with chopped bits of pork, which I recommend. There are three types of pork to choose from. Also a selection of donburi rice bowls.The kanji for Hajime is 一, which can also be…

Sanzou

Excellent Sedona curry at Sanzou Tokyo in Shimokitazawa. The red color comes from beets. Not too spicy. Guy near me kept wiping away his sweat from a different curry. Love the chilled chai offered at the end. Unexpected. A nice treat! Pickled cucumbers and onions to garnish. Tachigui, stand and eat, so it’s a quick…

Yomoda Soba

Yomoda Soba is a casual stand-and-slurp soba shop with branches in Tokyo. A bowl of noodles topped with tempura is only about 620 yen ($4). There are a variety of tempura toppings including shrimp, squid, or julienned onions.  What Yomoda Soba is also famous for is the Indian curry. A spicy curry with a small…

Eggg Café

@eggg_kokubunji is famous for fluffy pancakes but we also love the omuraisu. This one with tender beef cheeks and a demi-glace sauce. The knife 🔪 is full so it’s hard to cut into the omelette on top of the ketchup rice. If you’re curious to try the pancakes this is a great spot. The café…

Kunio

Shio ramen and a tsukemen with a wonton dipping sauce. Plus a side order of chashu gohan, rice topped simply with sliced chashu pork with a splash of a sweet soy sauce. We have tried to dine here but there is always a line. As it’s raining today my brilliant child said, we should go…

Wazaya

Wafu pasta, Italian dishes with Japanese ingredients, is always a comforting meal. Here scallops and Japanese mushrooms eringi, kikurage, and shimeji in an uni cream sauce. Here at Pasta Wazaya near Mitaka Station on the JR Chuo line. It is in the area of Inokashira Koen park and the Ghibli Museum. The menu is long….

Ginza Hangetsu

Ginza Hangetsu double curry 🍛 of coffee pork and ginger chicken with turmeric rice. Perfumed with fresh spices. Sliver of a shop on a quiet Ginza backstreet. Friendly staff and an English menu. Excellent value at ¥1,200 ($8). Ginza HangetsuChūō-ku, Ginza 6-4-15

Mitaka Vegan

On a quiet residential street about five minutes from Mitaka Station is Hitokokyū. The vegetarian restaurant has a nutritious set lunch with main dish options like carrot croquette, vegetarian gyōza potstickers, and kurumabu wheat gluten cutlets. Diners pick either genmai brown rice or a kōso genmai, fermented brown rice with azuki beans. The meal is…

Mitsuyado Tsukemen

Mitsuyado tsukemen ramen are thick noodles served cold with a warm dipping tonkotsu pork bone, seafood, and vegetable sauce in a separate bowl. The noodles are dipped into the thick sauce. There is a dashi broth in a thermos for thinning out the dipping sauce towards the end of the meal. The noodles are made…

Zōjirushi Shokudō

Zōjirushi, the company famous for electric rice cookers and many other products, has a restaurant near Tokyo Station in the Kitte building. The concept is smart marketing with Zōjirushi rice cookers in the middle of the restaurant. Zōjirushi sesame grinders and a Zōjirushi insulated cup are on each table. The drink bar includes a variety…

Kamakura Pasta

Wafu Italian, Italian cuisine made with Japanese ingredients, is trending in the US and has long been popular in Japan. We often make spaghetti at home using Japanese seafood or vegetables. It’s the perfect fusion cuisine. While we are on the road and eating mostly Japanese food we often will take a break from rice…

Viola

An exciting newcomer to the Tokyo food scene is Viola, serving traditional Japanese cuisine. The homestyle dishes are served kaiseki style, in courses. Dashi, the basic umami rich stock, is at the core of many of the dishes. The elegant simplicity of the dishes are a testament to the quality of the cooking. It’s no…

La Boucherie

T-Market is a new food hall has opened up in the basement of the Toranomon Hills Station Tower. I went hoping to check out Crazy Pizza but it was closed. I almost cried. But discovered La Boucherie by chef Toru Wachi. Chef Wachi is famous for a French approach to meats. The spaghetti and meatballs…

Bank Bakery

The Kabutocho area of Nihonbashi, long a quiet part of the city, is now a vibrant and cool spot with coffee shops, cafes, and an amazing bakery called Bank. @bank_bakery_tokyo has a colorful selection of sandwiches, tartines, breads, and some pastries. The pate de campagne sando is a thick slice and includes bacon, pickled red…

Ginza Tonki

Tonki is a local tonkatsu shop in Ginza. I love so much the ambience of the restaurant. It feels like a shop from 50 years ago. Kaki furai, fried oysters, is only from October through March. The small plate of pickles is set on the cup of hot tea. The meal is rounded out with…