Ginza Torigin

Ginza, in the heart of Tokyo, is filled with fabulous restaurants. There are also narrow paths squeezed in between buildings that pedestrians can use as shortcuts to other streets. There are also restaurants hidden away in these pockets. 

Torigin specializes in kama meshi, rice cooked with ingredients, and yakitori. I have tried going to Torigin many times for lunch but it’s so popular there is usually a line going down the long flight of stairs to the basement. The other day when the typhoon hit Tokyo I was delighted to walk in without waiting.

The interior was much more modern than I imagined. The busy shop is filled with both locals and tourists. At the counter chefs are grilling chicken skewers over binchotan charcoal. I was seated at a communal table with imitation flowers brightening up the space.

I ordered two skewers: sunagimo gizzard – one of my favorites for its chewy texture and tsukune meatballs which is always interesting as each shop has their version. This one was very much like ground chicken meatballs. Diners select either shio salt or tare sauce for the skewers. I love that the salted skewers came with a slice of lemon. The sour nukazuke rice bran oshinko tsukemono pickles (420 yen or $3) are the perfect accompaniment to the meal. 

There is a selection kama meshi rice including sansai mountain vegetables, bamboo shoots, or shiitake mushrooms – perfect for vegetable lovers. Salmon, tarako salted pollack roe, and ground chicken round out the options. I ordered the gomoku meshi (1,450 yen or about $10) which included five ingredients – shrimp, chicken, bamboo shoots, shiitake mushrooms, and green peas. The rice pot comes steaming to the table. Stir in the toppings to the rice. It is a hearty rice that I make a similar version at home. 

Most diners ordered the kama meshi with a few skewers, but some also ordered several yakitori with white rice.

Across the alley is a similar shop called New Torigin. I forget the story on the back story to these two restaurants. If you know, please let me know. A friend told me years ago but I forget.

Torigin

Tokyo-to, Chuo-ku, Ginza 5-5-7, New Ginza Bldg. 6, B1

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