Susumu Kakinuma makes some of Tokyo’s best pizzas in Nakameguro. Alan Richman, the decorated food journalist documents Kakinuma and his pizzas in this timeless GQ magazine article. It is worth the journey across the city to Nakameguro for one of his pies. There are two pizzas, the marinara and the Margherita.
Here is Richman on Seirinkan. “…Kakinuma prepares two kinds of pizza, marinara and Margherita, because that’s what you get at his favorite pizzeria in Naples. (I preferred the marinara, because the tomato sauce and garlic were so vivid.) His crusts are soft, chewy, puffy, slightly charred, and incredibly tender.”
What Richman doesn’t write about is my second favorite dish at Seirinkan after the pizza, broccoli. Boiled until al dente, then sautéed in a pan with crispy garlic chips and olive oil, this is the perfect partner to the pies. Kakinuma kindly shared the recipe with us on a recent visit and while we have made it a few times at home, it’s never as good as it is here. He also recommends dipping the chewy crust of the pizza in the garlic oil that the broccoli is served with.
Seirinkan is just a few minutes’ walk from Nakameguro station. if you are thirsty after your pizza, Bryan Baird’s Taproom, with some of Japan’s best craft beer, is just around the corner.
Seirinkan
Meguro-ku, Kami-Meguro 2-6-4
03-3714-5160
Food Sake Tokyo 
I love broccoli! This looks so so yum!!
oishii desu yo!
Can you share the broccoli recipe? IT is also my second favorite on the menu. I tell everything to save the oil for crust dipping.
Sorry for the late reply, Bruce.
If I remember correctly, par-boil the broccoli, but don’t overcook. You want a rich texture. Put the broccoli in the fridge and let it cool down. Then, thinly slice garlic and cook in oil over low heat until golden. Add cooled down pre-cooked broccoli and season with salt.
Thank you! I will try.