武蔵国分寺うしお蕎麦。A delicious meal at Musashi Kokubunji Ushio soba shop in Kokubunji (a short walk from Nishi-Kokubunji station). Can you see the hand-drawn menu of seasonal dishes on the wall? It shows you the heart of the restaurant. The chef has a selection of sake-friendly small dishes before ending with handmade soba. It’s a charming shop…
Tag: Tokyo
Numata Nori
Numata nori in Kappabashi sells top quality nori. The nori is harvested in the Ariake Sea in Kyushu. There are different styles depending on where it is harvested – the terroir of the sea, or single origin. One nori also includes aonori giving it a richer flavor. We stopped by recently and our favorite was…
Kaisen Uoriki
Kaisen Uoriki @uoriki1930 is a seafood izakaya 🏮 at @tobu_ikebukuro department store. Seasonal seafood dishes including isaki sashimi, hamo eel, and sushi. Popular side dishes for pairing with #sake and #shochu like Satsuma age fish cakes, dashimaki tamago, and menchi katsu made from tuna. We booked a koshitsu private room so it would be easier…
Tsukiji The Dashi Stand
Super cool spot at Tsukiji Market specializing in dashi. The Dashi Stand serves cups of umami-rich dashi. Dashi is our basic stock that is used for many dishes. Most of all I make it almost daily for miso soup. The same dashi can be used for simmering vegetables, noodles, and so much more. Anko (her…
Oak Door
Oak Door at the Grand Hyatt Tokyo in Roppongi is a fabulous spot to meet friends for wine and good food. The weather this day was perfect for sitting outdoors. Appetizers are perfect for sharing. Caesar salad, Hokkaido scallops, Kagawa white asparagus with smoked salmon, an an amazing creamy burrata and tomato salad with fried…
Tanikoretani
My client put this hip izakaya on my radar and I am grateful. Shinji Mizutani was an architect in New York City and after designing restaurants for others decided to design his own place and changed careers to restaurateur at two restaurants. After about 25 years in New York City he returned to Japan and…
Jangara Vegan Ramen
I have tried a few vegetarian ramen but have found the bowls lacking any depth. I was delighted by the vegan ramen at Kyushu Jangara. The soup stock is rich in umami and seasoned with soy sauce. Cool vegetable toppings of cabbage, sauteed Napa cabbage, wood ear mushrooms, green onions, nori and soy meat. Jangara’s…
Suba VS
Slurping buckwheat noodles while standing is called tachigui soba. Suba Soba from Kyoto has opened its first branch in Tokyo, called Suba VS, serving up the same signature hot bowls of noodles. About a dozen of menu options ranging from a simple enoki mushroom tempura fried into a thin fan bringing out its meaty notes…
Uokyu
I love the shitamachi area, old part of Tokyo, in particular Nihonbashi and Ningyocho. There are many historic shops – including many food shops that go back many generations. Uokyu in Ningyocho specializes in kasuzuke – fish filets marinated in sake lees and then charcoal grilled. There was already a queue before the store opened…
Taimeiken
Taimeiken is a famous yoshoku restaurant known for its omuraisu omelette over a ketchup seasoned rice. The Tampopo omuraisu comes from the Juzo Itami movie Tampopo and it is said this is the recipe that was used in Tampopo. The menu is long and includes beef stew (looks amazing), hayashi rice – like a beef…
Tempura Tsunahachi
Tsunahachi つな八 is a historic tempura shop in Shinjuku. This year it celebrates 100 years. I love the branch at Shinjuku Takashimaya as it’s brightly lit and conveniently located near the station. The main shop has an old retro feel to it, which is also cool. At Takashimaya we requested counter seats and could wait…
Sake Tasting
I’m often asked about where to learn about sake in Tokyo. We recently had a great class in Tokyo with Aaron of at @sakestudio.tokyo. We tried seven different sakes over four courses with themes. Small bites are paired with the nihonshu. It was fascinating to explore sake at different temperatures, sake from the same brewery made…
Izakaya Hiro
Hiro in Nakameguro is a fun evening with chef Satoshi. Just say omakase (it’s not only for sushi) and leave it up to Satoshi san to create a menu of small plates paired with sake. So much to love here. The relaxed environment, good music, and mix of dishes and sake. Spring represented in fresh…
Nishi-Ogikubo Manoma
Delighted to discover Manoma in Nishi-Ogikubo for a recent working lunch. The simple menu consists of a variety of curry with rice, drinks, and a few sweets. My favorite was the vegan dal curry, but all were oishii delicious. The caramel pudding was rich in texture. Notably the brightly lit cafe has comfortable seating, both…
Tsukishima Monjayaki
One of my favorite local neighborhoods in Tokyo for local eats is Tsukishima. There is one street lined with restaurants, many of them serving monjayaki, the Tokyo version of the more famous Osaka okonomiyaki. Diners sit at a teppan iron plate/table where food is cooked and you eat directly from the grill using chopsticks or…
Travel + Leisure Asia
Excited to have been tapped by Travel + Leisure Asia to pen a piece on eating in Japan. Great working with my editor, Veronica Inveen, to share with readers insider tips, having worked at both the Park Hyatt Tokyo and Takashimaya, and as the author of Food Sake Tokyo on dining out in Nippon. I hope you can…
Tsurutontan
Tsurutontan in Ginza is an udon specialty restaurant on the 10th floor of the Tokyu Plaza Ginza mall. The udon is served in enormous bowls that are dramatic, especially if you pick up the bowl to drink the broth. It’s a lovely restaurant for both solo diners and groups. Check out the cool table I…
Yamaharu
Yamaharu is one of the famous companies specializing in seasonal seafood at Toyosu Market. The company opened its first sushi shop at Toranomon Hills. The sushiya is a tachigui, stand and eat, style. I love these casual type of restaurants or drinking spots. Easy spots for solo diners or for small groups of friends. There…
Tsukiji Hitachiya
Japanese kitchenware contributes so many ways to cooking at home. One of my favorite shops for kitchen tools and gadgets is @tsukijihitachiya at #TsukijiMarket. I use many of their items at home including the pressed sushi and onigiri wooden molds, oroshigane grater for daikon and ginger, miso koshi to make it easier to add miso to…
Yamagataya Noriten
Yamagataya Noriten’s lunch set serves nori seven ways. A fabulous way to experience the many expressions of the sea vegetable including in soup, a salad dressing, and wrapped around #onigiri.🍙 The rice balls are made and served with two different crispy nori. Fascinating to see the differences. The first from Ariake Sea in Kyūshū has…
Tourindou
Tourindou is a charming wagashi, Japanese confectionary, shop and cafe on the quiet backstreets of Ueno. It’s a lovely spot to recharge after visiting the museums of Ueno, like the current Hello Kitty exhibition at the Tokyo National Museum (through Feb. 24, 2025). Founded in 1926 Tourindou sells traditional sweets including candied vegetables and fruit:…
Le Pristine
Dining well in Tokyo is easy. If anything it can be intimidating trying to plan the perfect itinerary for the best meals while in Japan. One tip is not to limit yourself to Japanese cuisine meals only. Japan offers amazing seasonal ingredients and I love tasting meals made by non-Japanese chefs working with what is…
Cafe Sadiiq
Delighted to have an American breakfast spot on the JR Chuo line at Cafe Sadiiq. Pancakes, egg, bacon, and a carrot rape salad with tuna. 1,500 yen ($10) for the pancakes, with a latte on weekdays for 400 yen ($2.50). It is just a five minute walk south of Mitaka Station, and on the way…
Bridge Coffee
Bridge Coffee on the first floor of the historic Eagle Building is a destination cafe. One you go out of your way to visit because it’s not on the Tokyo tourist map, even for locals. However, very much worth the trip. It sits on a busy corner of Nihonbashi Bakurochō. Spacious seating and natural light…
Goodies
Lately I have been craving a diner breakfast. Delighted to have a lumberjack pancakes plate with eggs and bacon that brought me back to being in the US. I added whipped cream, because why not?🥰 I went soon after they opened at 8 a.m. and it was busy with both tourists and locals. The buttermilk…
Hello Kitty
Hello Kitty is celebrating 50 years and there is an exhibit at the Tokyo National Museum. Basically it is an Instagram friendly show with a collection of Hello Kitty items produced over the years. If you love Kitty chan, then check it out. Be sure to go early, especially if you want to purchase items…
Ain Soph.
Fabulous vegan restaurant, Ain Soph., is in the heart of #Ginza. The bento (¥3,500 or $22) includes a salad, walnut miso dip for crudités, sesame tofu, spinach curry, tofu and potato omelet (no eggs), brown rice, and the best soy meat karaage I have ever had. The soy meat is juicy and is marinated in…
Kabuki at Meijiza
Meijiza is a theater near Nihonbashi Hamachō Station that has a rich history dating back to 1873. It is Tokyo’s oldest theater and celebrated 150 years in 2023. This month the kabuki show features the amazing Nakamura brothers, Kankuro and Shichinosuke. My dear friend who reignited my interest in kabuki affectionately calls the elder brother…
Rainy Day in Tokyo
Raining in Tokyo? Convenience stores will sell both umbrellas and light rain gear, think cheap plastic jackets that will keep your hands free. Stores like Tokyu Hands and Loft sell folding umbrellas that can be made into a small package for keeping in your bag. The quality of these are very good. Some ideas for…
Sougo
One of my favorite rice dishes in Tokyo is served at Sougo in Roppongi. It is burdock root that is julienned and fried as tempura and then stirred into rice with shio kombu, salted kelp. The shōjin ryōri restaurant serves a modern take on the Buddhist vegetarian temple cuisine. Chef Daisuke Nomura opened his restaurant…
Parklet Chicken Sando
Parklet Bakery in Nihonbashi is one of my go-to spots when craving baked goods, notably their cheese scone. Finally made it to their sister shop at the Meiji Park Market in the shadows of the Japan National Stadium built to host the Tokyo Olympic and Paralympic Games. The buttermilk fried chicken is served over a hearty…
Bistro Rojiura
Bistro Rojiura is a hip bistro and wine bar that is open for breakfast/brunch. The French toast with house-cured bacon is served with a scoop of creamy burrata cheese. Brilliant. Coffee is from the esteemed Switch Coffee. Rojiura means back alley. It is on the back streets of Shibuya near the Tokyu Hands flagship store and…
Pizzeria Il Tamburello
June 2025 update. Yoshihisa Otsubo won first place in the 22nd Pizzaiuolo World Championship by the Associazione Pizzaiuolo Napoletani. Bravissimo, chef! Seeking comfort in pizza at Ningyocho Pizzeria Il Tamburello. The Napoli pizza special was salsiccia e friarielli. The friarelli green is farmed by an Italian at Tenuta Campi Flegrei in Fukuoka. The punch of…
Rokumei
What I love about Tokyo is that it’s so big that one is constantly discovering new spots. Rokumei opened only in July in a part of Tokyo Station I never go through. It is a famous Nara coffee shop and this is their first Tokyo branch. Big selection of coffee and espresso drinks. I ordered…
Mugi to Tamago
Love these wafu pasta cafes. Quick meals. All the spaghetti dishes are tempting. Mugi to Tomato noodles are made with Hokkaido flour and the noodles are fresh, not dried. This salad and pasta is a bargain ¥1480 ($10). At Tokyo Station in the Yaesu Kita Shokudo area before entering the station gates. Near Daimaru department…
The Railway Museum
The Railway Museum is a fabulous museum with many old trains that visitors can go into and see the history of rail transportation in Japan. We could enter a lottery for different experiences and got in on the working the counter at a station. It was a fun experience. The museum is huge. There is…
Kitakata Shokudo
Kitakata Shokudo in Kanda Jimbocho serves up Fukushima style ramen. The noodles are on the thicker side and are hand massaged to be a bit wavy. The flour for the noodles is Hokkaido Yume Chikara which is high gluten. The soy sauce ramen is made with niboshi dried sardines. We got two bowls, the niku…
Lemon Pie
Japan is filled with shops that specialize in a dish. Lemon Pie Yoko near Tawaramachi Station (close to Kappabashi and Asakusa) serves up a fantastic lemon pie with a bouffant meringue. There are other pies, but this is their signature dish. This retro building is also awesome. I carried it for an hour until I…
Marunouchi Moheji
Finally managed to get a seat at Moheji monjayaki shop near Tokyo Station at the Shin Marunouchi Building, called Shinmaru Biru for short. Big fan of their shops at Tsukishima, the ground zero area of monjayaki. Monjayaki is a local dish to Tokyo cooked on an iron plate and eaten with a small metal spatula….
Ebisu Shodai
The white curry udon is topped with potatoes and cream whipped up to a fluffy cloud. Underneath the creamy topping is a spicy (for Japanese) curry. Shodai is also a lovely spot for sipping #sake so there is a nice list of sake-friendly small bites including dashimaki tamago omelet and soba gaki buckwheat dumpling. I…
Gaienmae Esquisse
This peaceful Aoyama coffee shop filled with large plants was a nice change to most bare coffee shops. Was going to get a coffee but the affogato was about the same price, so why not? Pistachio and vanilla ice cream with cookie bits topped with an espresso. Lovely café to do some writing and have…
Aoyama Ototo
Fabulous seafood lunch set at Aoyama Ototo @ototo_01010. Simple and brilliant concept. Freshly caught seafood with rice cooked in a donabe pot. Most of the seafood is grilled. The menu simply lists seasonal seafood such as: mackerel, yellowtail, Pacific saury, or sockeye salmon. There is also a miso simmered mackerel. From my seat I could see…
Maruichi Bagel
Big fan of @maruichi_bagel. Miho Inagi moved her #bagel shop from Shirogane to the Shinbashi and Toranomon area four months ago. Maruichi is about ten minutes from Shinbashi Station and it’s been too hot 🥵 and humid for me to make the trek. Maruichi opens at 7 a.m. with sandwiches starting at 8 a.m. It…
Tsukishima Monjayaki
Most people are familiar with okonomiyaki, the savory cabbage pancake from Osaka. Tokyo’s version is called monjayaki, which is similar that it is also cooked on an iron plate. Monjayaki has much more liquid and I prefer this one as it can be cooked into thin and crispy bits. The Tsukishima neighborhood is ground central…
Shabusen
Cool spot in the heart of Ginza for shabu-shabu or sukiyaki. My heart skipped a beat when I first saw Shabusen. Such a cool concept. Diners seated at a counter. Staff behind the counter bringing refills of rice and green onions or topping up my tea cup. Lunch starts at 2,200 yen ($15) for the…
God Bless Butter
God Bless Butter. 🧈 Brilliant branding by this sweets shop at Tokyo Station. Looove the gaudy gold. The package says: “The best butter confectionery ever created, supervised by an expert with God’s perspective, has been created. Enjoy the supreme taste.”🤣 Usually impossible to purchase without queuing. Got lucky the morning of a typhoon. 🌀 Even…
Tamai
Chirashizushi, scattered sushi, at Tamai in Nihonbashi. This is an old school version that is on the sweet side. Sweet black beans, candied chestnut 🌰, and sweet kampyo gourd. Mine, the tokujo, had tobiko flying fish roe. My friend ordered the tokutoku with ikura. Reminder to self to order more chirashizushi. The main store is…
Muromachi Toriya
Muromachi Toriya yakitori set lunch. This tiny shop in Nihonbashi has a handful of counter seats and a few table. Right squeeze at the counter. My neighbor kept elbowing me when she picked up her chopsticks. 🥢🤣 Excellent value for ¥1,200 ($8.50). Tsukune meatballs, quail eggs, liver, and more. Popular dishes include #donburi of yakitori…
Izakaya 🏮 Mimasuya
Mimasuya izakaya in Kanda opened in 1905. The fourth-generation shop is one of Tokyo’s oldest izakaya pubs. Long on my radar and have only finally just made it there. On a quiet backstreet in Kanda. Popular shop. We went at 6 p.m. and got some of the last seats. The menu is filled with sake-friendly…
Food Sake Tokyo 