Hiroshima Oysters – Mitsukoshi Kakigoya

A trip to Hiroshima was timed around oyster season, which is just now coming to an end. Shinji has not been and for him it’s all about the seafood, so we flew to Hiroshima and traveled around the area for about two weeks.

Sadly we were told at the restaurants we did visit that they would not be serving raw oysters as the oyster farmers had said that at this time there was a high risk of getting sick. A bit disappointing, but not the end of the world, and there are plenty of great dishes made with oysters.

On the roof of Mitsukoshi department store is a pop-up restaurant, Kakigoya, an ideal place for oyster dishes in a casual setting. Plastic tables and chairs are set under a giant tarp-covered tent. Portable charcoal grills are set next to the tables for grilling oysters. Kakigoya are often found beachside near the oyster farms, so it’s a treat to have it in the city center. The smell of the grilled oysters filled the tent. The only thing missing was the sound of the waves hitting the beach. It didn’t matter, I was in oyster heaven. If you think about it, this is the winter version of the summer beer gardens on Japanese department store rooftops.

The other diners were a wide mix from salarymen drinking beer with lunch, mothers with small kids, retirees, and a couple of solo diners. It seems to be a popular spot with the locals, always a good sign.

The staff was kind enough to grill the oysters for me. He told me 3 minutes first on the flat side of the oyster and then another 3 minutes on the curved side. The oysters are rich with the minerality of the ocean and need no seasoning.

The set lunch comes with soup, salad, two side dishes, panko-crusted and fried oysters, and oysters cooked with rice. I had fried oysters a few times while in Hiroshima, and this was the best. The rice cooked with oysters is a nice dish I haven’t come across in Tokyo. The rice is seasoned with the oysters as they cook together. Oyster season is coming to an end, so put this on your radar for next season.

Kakigoya at Mitsukoshi Department Store

Hiroshima-shi, Naka-ku, Ebisu-cho 5-1 広島市中区胡町5-1

 

Yakigaki – grilled oysters

Kakimeshi – rice cooked with oysters

Kaki furai – deep-fried oysters

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Hiroshima – Obscura Coffee Roasters

Obscura Coffee Roasters in Tokyo’s young Sangenjaya district has a branch in Hiroshima. The location is sweet as it is in the city center and easy to access to department stores and the Peace Park. It opens at 9 a.m. and has plenty of seating. The front window on this quiet side street brings in sunlight to the communal table. There are a handful of tables to the side.

I love the small details of this shop. Carpets on the cement floor that reminded me of Marrakech. To receive cash from customers the shop has an Ontayaki saucer.

I visited twice during our time in Hiroshima. The first time on a rainy day it was quiet. Just myself and another woman cupping her mug and taking in the aroma of the coffee. A few customers came in to get beans to take home. On my second visit on a sunny day it was busy.

Both the pour over and the latte were nice. The staff is very friendly and helpful in advising which coffee I would like. Another bonus is that it is just around the corner from Yours Supermarket. Yours has a great selection of Hiroshima products in the front of the shop, perfect for picking up omiyage to bring back for your friends.

Obscura Coffee Roasters

Hiroshima-ken, Hiroshima-shi, Naka-ku, Fukuromachi 3-28

〒730-0036 広島県広島市中区袋町3-28

http://obscura-coffee.com/hiroshima/

In Tokyo the Kanda Manseibashi location is very convenient to the Tokyo city center. This is a take-away shop with a few seats in front of the shop if the weather is good.