Fabulous vegan restaurant, Ain Soph., is in the heart of #Ginza. The bento (¥3,500 or $22) includes a salad, walnut miso dip for crudités, sesame tofu, spinach curry, tofu and potato omelet (no eggs), brown rice, and the best soy meat karaage I have ever had. The soy meat is juicy and is marinated in…
Author: YukariSakamoto
Author of Food Sake Tokyo.
Kabuki at Meijiza
Meijiza is a theater near Nihonbashi Hamachō Station that has a rich history dating back to 1873. It is Tokyo’s oldest theater and celebrated 150 years in 2023. This month the kabuki show features the amazing Nakamura brothers, Kankuro and Shichinosuke. My dear friend who reignited my interest in kabuki affectionately calls the elder brother…
Rainy Day in Tokyo
Raining in Tokyo? Convenience stores will sell both umbrellas and light rain gear, think cheap plastic jackets that will keep your hands free. Stores like Tokyu Hands and Loft sell folding umbrellas that can be made into a small package for keeping in your bag. The quality of these are very good. Some ideas for…
Sougo
One of my favorite rice dishes in Tokyo is served at Sougo in Roppongi. It is burdock root that is julienned and fried as tempura and then stirred into rice with shio kombu, salted kelp. The shōjin ryōri restaurant serves a modern take on the Buddhist vegetarian temple cuisine. Chef Daisuke Nomura opened his restaurant…
Parklet Chicken Sando
Parklet Bakery in Nihonbashi is one of my go-to spots when craving baked goods, notably their cheese scone. Finally made it to their sister shop at the Meiji Park Market in the shadows of the Japan National Stadium built to host the Tokyo Olympic and Paralympic Games. The buttermilk fried chicken is served over a hearty…
Bistro Rojiura
Bistro Rojiura is a hip bistro and wine bar that is open for breakfast/brunch. The French toast with house-cured bacon is served with a scoop of creamy burrata cheese. Brilliant. Coffee is from the esteemed Switch Coffee. Rojiura means back alley. It is on the back streets of Shibuya near the Tokyu Hands flagship store and…
Pizzeria Il Tamburello
June 2025 update. Yoshihisa Otsubo won first place in the 22nd Pizzaiuolo World Championship by the Associazione Pizzaiuolo Napoletani. Bravissimo, chef! Seeking comfort in pizza at Ningyocho Pizzeria Il Tamburello. The Napoli pizza special was salsiccia e friarielli. The friarelli green is farmed by an Italian at Tenuta Campi Flegrei in Fukuoka. The punch of…
Shichiken
Shichiken has been brewing sake using the famous water of Hakushu in the Southern Alps of Yamanashi prefecture. Shichiken is just down the street from Koma delicatessen (see previous post). It’s a big brewery with a sake tasting room, retail shop, and a cafe serving drinks and desserts using amazake and koji. Check out the…
Koma
From Kofu, Yamanashi, I jumped on the Chūō line train west towards Kobuchizawa. My friends have made the garden at a new delicatessen called Koma. My girlfriend said that I should come and check out this new restaurant. She knew that it was very special, and that I would like it. Chef Ayako Ono, former…
Kofu
Kofu in Yamanashi is only 90 minutes west of Tokyo on the Azusa express train on the Chūō line. The city is walkable and there are buses to areas for hiking, waterfalls, shrines and temples. For me I usually stay in the city as there is enough to see. Yamanashi is famous for fruit and…
Kōfu Okutō
Okutō Honten near Kōfu Station serves up many local dishes of Yamanashi prefecture. Tori motsu ni, simmered chicken giblets was created here in 1913. Liver, gizzard, and other offal is simmered in a sweet soy sauce. The dish has since become a regional dish that is served at many restaurants. Basashi, horse sashimi. It’s like…
Sawataya
One of my favorite overnight trips from Tokyo is to Kofu in Yamanashi, west of Tokyo. Yamanashi is famous for Fuji san (Mount Fuji), wine, big blue skies, mountains, fruits like grapes and muskmelons, and great local dishes like hoto noodles, basashi horse sashimi, and simmered chicken offal. Kofu city is easy to navigate and…
Rokumei
What I love about Tokyo is that it’s so big that one is constantly discovering new spots. Rokumei opened only in July in a part of Tokyo Station I never go through. It is a famous Nara coffee shop and this is their first Tokyo branch. Big selection of coffee and espresso drinks. I ordered…
Mugi to Tamago
Love these wafu pasta cafes. Quick meals. All the spaghetti dishes are tempting. Mugi to Tomato noodles are made with Hokkaido flour and the noodles are fresh, not dried. This salad and pasta is a bargain ¥1480 ($10). At Tokyo Station in the Yaesu Kita Shokudo area before entering the station gates. Near Daimaru department…
The Railway Museum
The Railway Museum is a fabulous museum with many old trains that visitors can go into and see the history of rail transportation in Japan. We could enter a lottery for different experiences and got in on the working the counter at a station. It was a fun experience. The museum is huge. There is…
Kitakata Shokudo
Kitakata Shokudo in Kanda Jimbocho serves up Fukushima style ramen. The noodles are on the thicker side and are hand massaged to be a bit wavy. The flour for the noodles is Hokkaido Yume Chikara which is high gluten. The soy sauce ramen is made with niboshi dried sardines. We got two bowls, the niku…
Lemon Pie
Japan is filled with shops that specialize in a dish. Lemon Pie Yoko near Tawaramachi Station (close to Kappabashi and Asakusa) serves up a fantastic lemon pie with a bouffant meringue. There are other pies, but this is their signature dish. This retro building is also awesome. I carried it for an hour until I…
Marunouchi Moheji
Finally managed to get a seat at Moheji monjayaki shop near Tokyo Station at the Shin Marunouchi Building, called Shinmaru Biru for short. Big fan of their shops at Tsukishima, the ground zero area of monjayaki. Monjayaki is a local dish to Tokyo cooked on an iron plate and eaten with a small metal spatula….
Ebisu Shodai
The white curry udon is topped with potatoes and cream whipped up to a fluffy cloud. Underneath the creamy topping is a spicy (for Japanese) curry. Shodai is also a lovely spot for sipping #sake so there is a nice list of sake-friendly small bites including dashimaki tamago omelet and soba gaki buckwheat dumpling. I…
Gaienmae Esquisse
This peaceful Aoyama coffee shop filled with large plants was a nice change to most bare coffee shops. Was going to get a coffee but the affogato was about the same price, so why not? Pistachio and vanilla ice cream with cookie bits topped with an espresso. Lovely café to do some writing and have…
Aoyama Ototo
Fabulous seafood lunch set at Aoyama Ototo @ototo_01010. Simple and brilliant concept. Freshly caught seafood with rice cooked in a donabe pot. Most of the seafood is grilled. The menu simply lists seasonal seafood such as: mackerel, yellowtail, Pacific saury, or sockeye salmon. There is also a miso simmered mackerel. From my seat I could see…
Kissaten Bridge
The melon pancake (1,400 yen) at Kissaten Bridge is over the top. A thick hot cake is wrapped around fresh cantelope and ice cream. This is then covered with a sweet honeydew flavored cream. This dish is the signature sweet at this quiet old school coffee shop in the basement of the Nishi-Ginza department store….
Maruichi Bagel
Big fan of @maruichi_bagel. Miho Inagi moved her #bagel shop from Shirogane to the Shinbashi and Toranomon area four months ago. Maruichi is about ten minutes from Shinbashi Station and it’s been too hot 🥵 and humid for me to make the trek. Maruichi opens at 7 a.m. with sandwiches starting at 8 a.m. It…
Tsukishima Monjayaki
Most people are familiar with okonomiyaki, the savory cabbage pancake from Osaka. Tokyo’s version is called monjayaki, which is similar that it is also cooked on an iron plate. Monjayaki has much more liquid and I prefer this one as it can be cooked into thin and crispy bits. The Tsukishima neighborhood is ground central…
Shabusen
Cool spot in the heart of Ginza for shabu-shabu or sukiyaki. My heart skipped a beat when I first saw Shabusen. Such a cool concept. Diners seated at a counter. Staff behind the counter bringing refills of rice and green onions or topping up my tea cup. Lunch starts at 2,200 yen ($15) for the…
God Bless Butter
God Bless Butter. 🧈 Brilliant branding by this sweets shop at Tokyo Station. Looove the gaudy gold. The package says: “The best butter confectionery ever created, supervised by an expert with God’s perspective, has been created. Enjoy the supreme taste.”🤣 Usually impossible to purchase without queuing. Got lucky the morning of a typhoon. 🌀 Even…
Tamai
Chirashizushi, scattered sushi, at Tamai in Nihonbashi. This is an old school version that is on the sweet side. Sweet black beans, candied chestnut 🌰, and sweet kampyo gourd. Mine, the tokujo, had tobiko flying fish roe. My friend ordered the tokutoku with ikura. Reminder to self to order more chirashizushi. The main store is…
Muromachi Toriya
Muromachi Toriya yakitori set lunch. This tiny shop in Nihonbashi has a handful of counter seats and a few table. Right squeeze at the counter. My neighbor kept elbowing me when she picked up her chopsticks. 🥢🤣 Excellent value for ¥1,200 ($8.50). Tsukune meatballs, quail eggs, liver, and more. Popular dishes include #donburi of yakitori…
Izakaya 🏮 Mimasuya
Mimasuya izakaya in Kanda opened in 1905. The fourth-generation shop is one of Tokyo’s oldest izakaya pubs. Long on my radar and have only finally just made it there. On a quiet backstreet in Kanda. Popular shop. We went at 6 p.m. and got some of the last seats. The menu is filled with sake-friendly…
Utsunomiya MinMin
On our way back to Tokyo from Nasu Shiobara in Tochigi we made a last minute decision to stop in #Utsunomiya for #gyoza. The city is famous for potstickers. There are dozens of restaurants in the city. As we didn’t have a lot of time we went to our favorite MinMin. It is connected to…
Tochigi Rengetsu
We had the most fabulous stay at #NasuShiobara @rengetsu_natsu in #Tochigi. My kid has been wanting to stay here for a long time so we booked it way in advance. There is a private onsen bath on our veranda. The property also has a large hot springs area that also includes three private hot springs. I…
Nagano Kissaten
For me nothing beats a #kissaten #Japanesebreakfast when I am traveling in Japan. For the simplicity of the meal, but also for the ambience of these old school #coffee shops. About a ten-minute walk from #Nagano Station is Saramu. The owner said she took it from the Arabic greeting salaam after watching Lawrence of Arabia….
Nagano Chōju Shokudō
Hi When we are traveling and not sure where to eat we often go to station buildings or department stores. These areas where people gather are sure to have reputable restaurants, many local. At Nagano Station is Chōju Shokudō, the long life dining hall. It is on the third floor of the MIDORI Nagano mall….
Nagano Shichimi
One of the cities that I love spending time in is Nagano. It is easy to access from Tokyo. So much to love here. Zenkoji temple. The Buddhist temple dates back to 642. https://www.zenkoji.jp/en/ I also love the many shops on the Omotesando street leading up to Zenkoji. In particular, one of Japan’s most famous…
Yawataya Isogoro
One of the cities that I love spending time in is Nagano. It is easy to access from Tokyo. So much to love here. Zenkoji temple. The Buddhist temple dates back to 642. https://www.zenkoji.jp/en/ I also love the many shops on the Omotesando street leading up to Zenkoji. In particular, one of Japan’s most famous…
Niigata Ittouya
Ittouya ramen at Niigata Station in the new CoCoLo mall. Extra thick menma. Gyoza potstickers 🥟. The mall is packed like a depachika with local specialties including sake, fermented foods, and much more. Allow at least an hour to explore CoCoLo. On the first floor is also a Meidiya supermarket. https://ramen-ittouya.com
Kiraku Ryokan, Sado
On #Sado Island we stayed at a charming and rustic #onsen hot springs #ryokan inn called Kiraku きらく. The outdoor #rotenburo hot springs overlooked a lake. The setting sun a reminder that an eventful day was coming to an end. Breakfast was as I love. Rice, miso soup, natto, and small dishes. Kiraku is an…
Sado, Niigata
Japan’s newest UNESCO World Heritage Site is the Sado Kinzan, gold mines. Some basic English available. Interesting to go down into the mountain to see where gold and silver was mined dating back to the Edo Period (1603-1867). The first and second photos show where the mountain was mined. Stopped by to see the Kitazawa…
Nihonbashi Dormy Inn
If you’re on a budget in Japan 🇯🇵 on holidays check out the Dormy Inn chain. This simple room was less than $100. The basic room is small, but you’re in Tokyo, so most likely are only in the room to sleep and recharge. This Kodenmacho property in Nihonbashi Ningyocho has a hot springs on…
Tokyo Shortlist
Where to eat in Tokyo? So many amazing meals. Hard to get a bad one. Here are some of my favorites: For Eater: https://www.eater.com/maps/best-restaurants-tokyo-japan For Food & Wine: https://www.foodandwine.com/yukari-sakamoto-8603981 For AFAR: https://www.afar.com/authors/yukari-sakamoto My Tokyo Guide for the Washington Post: https://www.washingtonpost.com/travel/japan/tokyo-local-guide/ For Tokyo Weekender: https://www.tokyoweekender.com/author/yukari-sakamoto/ Kanazawa for Food & Wine: https://www.foodandwine.com/worlds-next-great-food-cities-7484717 Cathay Pacific on Kyoto: https://www.cathaypacific.com/cx/en_KR/inspiration/dining/best-restaurants-in-kyoto.html…
Ginza Torigin
Ginza, in the heart of Tokyo, is filled with fabulous restaurants. There are also narrow paths squeezed in between buildings that pedestrians can use as shortcuts to other streets. There are also restaurants hidden away in these pockets. Torigin specializes in kama meshi, rice cooked with ingredients, and yakitori. I have tried going to Torigin…
Ebisu Marumo Pizza
My favorite pizzeria in Tokyo is Pizza Marumo in Ebisu. A delight to go with fellow foodies so we could enjoy so many pizzas. The umami pizza is with shaved #kombu #kelp, #anchovies, and mushrooms. Marinara, Margherita, and Bismarck with ham and an egg. Chef Motokura’s crust has lots of water so it’s light and…
Toyosu Market
It was my pleasure to get an interpreting job at Toyosu Market with a journalist writing an article on the world’s biggest seafood market. Although I did tours at Tsukiji Market the new Toyosu Market is off limits to non-trade people. One morning it was amazing to meet Yamazaki san of Yamaharu. A colorful variety…
Toyosu Nakaei Curry
One of the meals I miss from the old Tsukiji Market is Indo Curry Nakaei. Was lucky to do some work at Toyosu Market this week. There is an area with several restaurants, many serving sushi and seafood dishes. I was excited to have the double curry – Indian and beef curry along with a…
Pizzeria il Tamburello
Fabulous truffle and Gorgonzola #pizza at Puzzeria il Tamburello in the Nihonbashi area. Served with toasted hazelnuts, pine nuts, and honey. Three croquettes to start the meal. Aonori, potato, and pasta croquettes. All fabulous. Italian music in the background.☺️ Il Tamburello is celebrating its 14th anniversary! Delighted to finally make it. Popular shop with only…
Nagoya Bucyo Coffee
Nagoya is rich with retro kissaten coffee shops. It is the highlight of each visit. Bucyo Coffee is a popular shop that is a few blocks from the Courtyard Marriott. The ogura a toast is a sweet azuki bean paste with toast. Bucyo serves it over toast but also over a kayser bun. The kinako…
Nagoya Miso Nikomi Udon
The One of Nagoya’s local dishes is miso nikomi udon. This is the Nagoya kochin oyako version by Yamamotoya Sōhonke. Oyako means mother and child, so chicken and egg are together. The piping hot dish is served in a donabe earthenware pot. Thick udon noodles are al dente with leeks, enoki mushrooms, kamaboko fish cake,…
Nagoya Tsutaya
In #Nagoya is one of Japan’s most photographed #Tsutaya #bookstores. There is a grand display from the first to second floors. Naturally, a very popular spot of taking photos, but on the first floor there were signs that said to please not take photos. But lots of people were taking photos from the second floor,…
Nagoya Ōsu Shōtengai
In Nagoya the Ōsu Shōtengai is worth perusing for the street food. Loads of good food including many shops for onigiri or omusubi, Taiwanese fried chicken, warabi mochi, and so much more. The Shōtengai reminds me of Osaka Dotonbori but not nearly as crowded.🤣
Nagoya Courtyard by Marriott
If you’re staying in Nagoya the Courtyard by Marriott is a nice property. Friendly staff. Comfortable bed. Spacious for a Japanese hotel. Modern facilities. A gym, but we spent enough time exploring the city, to use the gym. If the weather is cooler it’s probably about a 20-minute walk from the station. It was a…
Food Sake Tokyo 